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Home tools Buyer's Guides from tech enthusiast who loves technology and clever solutions for better living.
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Top Of The Best Tapestries Reviewed In 2018Last Updated January 1, 2019
№1 – Turquoise Seawater Tapestry Wall Hanging- Seawater with Sea Foam Hanging Tapestry By ZBLX for Home and Wall Decorations. (51.2″X59.1″)
№2 – Messagee Mandala Bohemian Flower Tapestry Wall Hanging Indian Wall Art Blue Green
№3 – AnnHomeArt Custom Wall Tapestry Hanging Tie Dye Tapestry Picnic Beach Sheet Table Cloth 40”x 60”
There seems to be a consensus among experts that the velcro method is the safest way to hang and preserve any oriental rug.
To do the velcro method, you must hand-stitch velcro to the back of your rug.
We recommend a 2-inch thick strip for larger and heavier rugs It may sound scary to stitch into your rug, but the stitching will be easily removable if you ever decide to put the rug back on the floor.
We recommend that you DO NOT use sticky-back velcro, as this will be hard to remove, and will most likely leave a sticky residue on the back of your rug.
Not only is this method safe, it creates a clean and professional look, and the rug will be easy to move.
1.Buy a few yards of 2-inch wide Velcro at a fabric or crafts store, or online.
Also purchase some unbleached muslin. This is what you will be attaching directly to your rug for protection!
Measure the width of your rug and cut the Velcro and muslin accordingly.
Sew the “fuzzy” side of the Velcro to your muslin strip, and sew the muslin strip directly to the back of your rug with a whip stitch, preferably using a carpet thread that matches a color in your rug.
Use a staple gun to attach the “hooked” side of your Velcro to the piece of wood. Staple about every six inches or less to ensure a strong hold.
Mount the wood on your wall using a drill and screws,
The second most recommended method for heavyweight rugs is to stitch a casing on the back of your rug. The casing is a tube of fabric that will snugly hold a rod, and the rod will hand from the wall.
Transitional Hall by New York Interior Designers & Decorators Andrew Suvalsky Designs
Even though, like the Velcro method, this method requires a bit of extra work, It is a very clean and safe way to hang any rug, EVEN HEAVY ONES!
Scandinavian Bedroom by Roswell Home Builders Ashton Woods
Carpet clamps are another popular way to display rugs on the wall, often used in museums and rug shops.
The only issue with rug clamps, is that the weight of the rug could be unevenly distributed, which may cause the shape to warp over time.
Nevertheless, the clamp method is a classic approach to hanging a rug which provides a professional look.
Farmhouse Family Room by Ojai Interior Designers & Decorators Maraya Interior Design
Layer on a Rod
This method doesn’t make much sense for hanging big rugs, but if you have a bunch of small rugs, this is a surefire way to add interest to your wall!
As the tutorial above shows, you simply hang your rugs using some kind of rod and thenlayer them based on color and texture, giving you a beautiful, bohemian look!
Estimated cost: depends on how fancy you go with the rod! (+ drill and screws).
Tackless Carpet Strips
You can buy tackless carpet strips at any home improvement store. They are usually used to secure carpeting on the floor, but can also be used to hang rugs on walls.
This method requires that you hang the carpet strips on the wall, and attach your oriental rug to them… This method requires less work than the Velcro and Casing methods, and is a bit cheaper, but is is also more risky. It may pull the fibers of your rug loose, damaging its integrity.
To protect your rug from the wood and nails, paint or seal the rug strip and let it dry completely.
Using a level to ensure the strip is completely straight, attach the strip to the wall using nails or screws.
Lift the rug and press it into the strip to attach it. For extra support, hammer nails into the corners.
If you want the rug to hang flush to the wall, use the strips to create a frame and repeat the steps above for each section of the frame.
Antique Carpets and Tapestry
Knowing, caring for and displaying your antique carpets, tapestry, samplers and textiles.
Your antique carpets and tapestry are among the most beautiful items you will own but they are probably subject to the most abuse. Caring for antique carpets and tapestries can be a very time consuming job.
The term carpet was originally used to describe coverings for tables, beds, and other furniture and only from the early 18th century was it associated with floor coverings.
The history of antique rugs and carpets from distinct areas is divided into two major traditions: the Asian and the Western.
The older and more opulent carpet is in the Asian tradition and includes makers from central Asia, the Middle East, North Africa, India and China.
The western tradition, derived from the Asian, was established much later. It had a brief period of individuality in France, but succumbed to imitation and to mechanical weaving in the 19th century.
The Origins of Antique Carpets
The origins of the technique of pile-woven carpets in europe are obscure, although asian carpets were imported from early times.
The earliest european pile carpets were produced in 12th and 13th century Spain, which had familiar ties with the islamic world.
All carpets were woven with a single warp knot particular to the spanish.
France was the most important centre of pile-woven carpet manufacture in the 17th and 18th centuries.
Two major weaving centres were Savonnerie in 162and Aubusson in 1742.
Both centres were established for the production of carpets based on eastern techniques; today the name Savonnerie is synonymous with luxurious french pile carpets.
The three main centres of production were Kidderminster, Wilton and Aaxminster.
Those first machine manufactured carpets were cheap, coarse, reversible floor coverings woven for purely utilitarian purposes.
Tips for displaying your antique carpet and tapestry
Delicate or rare items should only be wall-hung length ways so that the weight is taken by the warp.
Small items should be mounted by a specialist framer onto a linen backing and fitted into a wooden stretcher and then box mounted with a Perspex window for further protection.
Heavy antique carpet and tapestry will need additional support tapes running vertically down the back to help spread the weight.
Dyes can fade in intense light from bright sunshine or spotlights. So use cool-beam, fibre optic or low wattage incandescent lights for any highlighting effect and draw the curtains when a room is not in use during the day.
However, only by handling older pieces can you learn to appreciate the uniqueness, the beauty and the originality that are a part of textile art.
There are no fixed patterns, antique carpet and tapestry was handmade and when someone produces something with their own hands, they put a lot of themselves and their own artistry into the creation.
You should read various carpet catalogues, which provide an enormous amount of information, and look and touch as many pieces as possible.
You should compare the quality, the designs, the colour combinations, the weaving techniques and everything else about them.
Only then will you decide whether you want to purchase pieces for investment purposes, or whether you want to buy more decorative items you can use every day.
If you choose to use what you collect, then quality becomes paramount and should be your first consideration.
You can determine if the colours have remained true to the original hues by comparing the front face and the underside of a carpet. There can be a little difference, but basically the colours should be the same.
Also, older carpets are made from higher quality, hand-spun wool, which is softer and only absorbs the dyes, not external pollutants such as dust and dirt.
Antique carpets also suffer oxidation of the black, and sometimes brown wool. Most blacks oxidize after a period of 60 or 70 years, resulting in a lower pile than other colours in the carpet. This is a result of the amount of carbon contained in the dye and varies with region and origin.
You also find that aniline dyes, (natural dyes strengthened with chemicals), have been used in carpets for the past 150 years. Aniline dyes produce different colours from those of natural vegetable dyes. However, some shades never contain any chemicals, such as cochineal, a burgundy colour made from the secretions of the female cochineal insect.
This sort of rarity makes antique carpets all the more valuable and some places are known for always using specific colours, such as saffron in Konya carpets and the pinks in pieces from Bergama, Kirsehir and Sirvan.
Watch for repairs on older antique carpets.
Always check the availability of a particular kind of antique carpet. If there are a lot of them around or a significant quantity for sale then that type will not be as valuable as one that is very rarely seen.
If they are truly old, 200 or 300 years of age, then treat them with great care and always place them in a low-traffic area.
Tapestry is probably the oldest of the flat-surfaced patterned carpet weaves.
Instead, discontinuous wefts of different colours, form the design patterns.
Soumak, another technique for making flat-woven rugs, originated in the Middle East as early as the 7th century BC., and with this method wefts are wrapped onto the warps in a lateral direction.
Frequently, rows of soumak are alternated with rows of plain weave.
Other flat-woven rug techniques include brocading and embroidery.
In some cases, two or more techniques may be used in the production of a single rug.
Ingrain carpet, popular in middle-class homes in 18th and 19th century America, was a flat, woven, reversible wool carpet.
Compact Outdoor Beach Picnic Blanket
It’s time to take your vacation to a whole another level! A picnic on the beach becomes reality with this plastic blanket, easy to dust sand off.
These beach accessories make every day in the sun less stressful because they worry about the little things for you so you can just relax.
Airline age rules opens in a new window
Children under must either sit in laps or in seats. In Lap In Seat
Shopping in Little India is not exactly your run-of-the-mill retail experience. The Singapore shopping scene is usually associated more with futuristic mega-malls, with ultra-designer brands in gleaming air-conditioned open spaces. Little India, however, presents a very different story; one that’ll probably leave you with a longer lasting impression, as well as more cash left over in your back pocket. From 24-hour shopping centres to bustling markets and street stalls, the range of shopping in this vibrant Singapore neighbourhood is just as diverse as its people, culture and food. Whether its clothes, electronics, fresh food, souvenirs, artwork or traditional Indian products, our list of the Best Shopping in Little India will have you covered.
The advice in this article will be purely my opinion, based on information that I have gathered in buying and using looms, helping my students buy looms, and seeing their reactions to the decisions they made. Ultimately, choosing a loom is a very personal decision, because intangible factors enter into the equation. Consider, for example, ergonometrics: what may be a comfortable weaving position for a tall weaver, may not be a comfortable position for a short one. Some weavers care about the aesthetics of the loom because of where it will be placed in the home. Others are interested only in the mechanics and not in the type of wood used in manufacturing.
In my classes, I give students the guidelines discussed below. Since there are exceptions to every point, we also have the opportunity to discuss these guidelines and we talk about loom possibilities when one becomes available, or when the time comes to commit. I have even made “loom house calls” with my loom-doctor husband Terry Dwyer, who built my first loom nearly twenty-five years ago (still happily in use), and who maintains the looms at the weaving studio of Chimneyville Crafts where I teach weekly classes.
Ideally, every weaver has a trusted teacher, mentor, or friend who can help in the decision process. Trying a loom before buying is very important. If a guild is not available to help with that service, HGA’s Convergence® and other conferences are a great place to comparison shop.
My philosophy for a first loom is that it should be as easy as possible to use — “bells and whistles” can come with a future loom. Weaving is a slow process, and it is composed of many steps, each of which requires different skills. This can be daunting to a beginner working alone. It is far better to get a good, versatile loom without extras so the weaver can get started and proceed easily. I have seen too many looms purchased by beginners not ready for them. The loom then sits idle because a little something went wrong, or something a bit more complicated was required to proceed something that would seem pretty trivial to a more experienced weaver. If there is too much uncertainty to a step — for example, changing the tie-up in a countermarch loom — the weaver wants to wait for when there is more time, when she is not so tired, when he can get help from a friend…. That time never seems to come.
All of my recommendations arise from this philosophy: buy a good, versatile loom, start weaving, experiment, get lots of experience, put lots of warps on, and try different techniques, different fibers, and different structures. Do not be stifled by the loom. Preferences will become apparent and will determine what loom to buy next. Most of all, do not think of this first loom as the ultimate dream loom. Doing so will only frustrate you and paralyze the process. For any weaver who weaves long enough, there usually is a second loom, which may come as a replacement for the first, or as an addition to it, depending on the weaver’s space, finances and personal circumstances.
I personally do not know of any unreliable companies in the weaving business. So the choices may come down to cost, aesthetics, and service. In considering cost, make sure that the comparisons are fair. For example, if the number of heddles is different, add the cost of adding the extra heddles to the loom before evaluating. (See Things You Need to Start Weaving for a good comparison.)
Aesthetics are purely personal. Some loom companies work with only one or two kinds of woods, while others can accommodate special requests. Some loom companies deal directly with customers; others have local dealers. Some companies expect the weaver to assemble the loom, others rely on the local dealer, and still others deliver the loom assembled. Isolated weavers may not have a dealer nearby. If buying from a dealer, find out what the company expects the dealer to do and respect that agreement. For example, if the loom is shipped directly to the weaver, but the company expects the dealer to assemble that loom, make sure that the dealer does assemble it, so the weaver is not responsible for malfunctions. (I speak from experience — the dealer is no longer in business, but that did not help the weaver with her loom at that time!) Alternatively, make arrangements directly with the company to assemble your own loom.
A loom is a working piece of equipment. With time some pieces may require replacement. The Craftmen’s Guild’s teaching and weaving studio has working looms over half a century old. It is still possible to get replacement parts. For this reason, I recommend to students that they buy a commercial loom, rather than a home-made one, unless a close family member is the woodworker. I say this even with my personal experience of the loom made by my husband.
You have just purchased a home, or maybe you are about to start the process, and the one thought that comes to mind is trying to budget for the furniture you will need to complete your space. Often, it can be overwhelming when you begin to consider the number of rooms that need filling and the budget this requires. This guide is here to get you started and to help you break down the best ways to furnish your home.
Furniture Costs and Budget
Another important way to pay attention to costs is to purchase from big to small. Find those larger pieces or big ticket items first and then fill in the smaller pieces as you go. This takes care of filling the room appropriately as well as bringing the most essential items home first. This means that if there is a particular chair or sofa that you know is a splurge, buy that first, and then you can adjust your budget accordingly when it comes to side tables or accessories.
Incorporating the Old and the New
Almost every new homeowner is faced with the challenge of incorporating furniture they are bringing from their previous home and blending it with newer pieces. If the styles of your new and old pieces are similar, it could be a fairly seamless blend for you.
However, if you have heirloom pieces or are changing the style between your new and old, you will want to pay attention to how you incorporate furniture pieces into your space. One possibility is to update the older pieces to work well with your new pieces. This might include a coat of paint or a new stain or sending it out for re-upholstery. You might have an older sofa blend in well with other older larger items, such as armchairs, and then bring the new elements in with smaller pieces such as side tables. Alternatively, you might have the newer items be the larger pieces and the older ones be the smaller ones. One design style that lends itself easily to incorporating the old and the new is eclectic, as it celebrates the blending of styles.
Tapestry on Central
Tapestry on Central is a sprawling 280-unit development with a mix of brownstone, condo, townhome and loft residences. Located on Central Avenue and Encanto Boulevard, it’s within minutes of Phoenix’s Financial District and the airport.
Moving through misconceptions
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NEW YORK — To better incorporate all of the brands it now owns, the storied Coach company of New York is changing its name to Tapestry.
The luxury goods company that came to prominence in the “Mad Men” era now owns brands like Stuart Weitzman and Kate Spade & Co. as well. CEO Victor Luis said Wednesday that the name Tapestry is more inclusive. “We are now at a defining moment in our corporate reinvention, having evolved from a mono-brand specialty retailer to a true house of emotional, desirable brands,” Luis said in a company release.
A website with the new name, which becomes official at the end of the month, is up and running.
The change is part of Coach’s pursuit of younger shoppers who may not feel the same draw to store windows on Manhattan’s 5th Avenue.
Coach began as a small workshop in Manhattan in 1941, and became a fashion powerhouse in the early 1960s though innovate designs.
First of all thanks for reading my article to the end! I hope you find my reviews listed here useful and that it allows you to make a proper comparison of what is best to fit your needs and budget. Don’t be afraid to try more than one product if your first pick doesn’t do the trick.
Most important, have fun and choose your Tapestries wisely! Good luck!
So, TOP3 of Tapestries
- №1 — Turquoise Seawater Tapestry Wall Hanging- Seawater with Sea Foam Hanging Tapestry By ZBLX for Home and Wall Decorations. (51.2″X59.1″)
- №2 — Messagee Mandala Bohemian Flower Tapestry Wall Hanging Indian Wall Art Blue Green
- №3 — AnnHomeArt Custom Wall Tapestry Hanging Tie Dye Tapestry Picnic Beach Sheet Table Cloth 40”x 60”