Welcome to Buyer’s Guide!
Home tools Buyer's Guides from tech enthusiast who loves technology and clever solutions for better living.
Home tools Buyer's Guides from tech enthusiast who loves technology and clever solutions for better living.
Check Today Price
Top Of The Best Replacement Belts Reviewed In 2018Last Updated March 1, 2019
№1 – Sanding Detailer Replacement Belts, 80 Grit, 5-Pack
№2 – Sanding Sticks Replacement Belts 20-pack, 5 each of 240,320,400,500 grit
№3 – Lumberton Sanding Detailer Replacement Belts, 80 Grit, 10-Pack
Coolant and Heater Hoses
Hoses are the cooling system’s weakest structural component. They are made of flexible rubber compounds to absorb vibrations between the engine and radiator, or, in the case of heater hoses, the engine and body’s firewall. Designed to hold coolant under pressure, hoses are also subjected to fluctuating extremes of heat and cold, dirt, oils, and sludge. Atmospheric ozone also attacks rubber compounds.
The most damaging cause of hose failure—electrochemical degradation (ECD)—isn’t easy to detect. According to engineers for the Gates Corporation, a parts maker, ECD attacks hoses from the inside, causing tiny cracks. Acids and contaminants in the coolant can then weaken the yarn material that reinforces the hose. Eventually, pinholes can develop or the weakened hose may rupture from heat, pressure, or constant flexing.
Some easy, basic maintenance can help prevent coolant hose failure:
The upper radiator hose fails more often than any other hose, followed by the water pump bypass hose (if your vehicle is so equipped), and the outlet heater hose from the engine to the heater core. Experts recommend, however, that all hoses be replaced at least every four years or when one fails. Always use replacement hoses designed to fight ECD. Trademarks will vary among hose manufacturers. (Gates uses “ECR” for Electro-Chemical Resistant). Look for a “Type EC” label on the hose or its packaging. That is a Society of Automotive Engineers standard signifying “electrochemical.” Most vehicles built after 199come with ECD-resistant hoses.
Many of the same elements that attack hoses also attack belts—heat, oil, ozone, and abrasion. Almost all cars and trucks built today have a single multi-grooved serpentine belt that drives the alternator, water pump, power-steering pump, and air-conditioning compressor. Older vehicles may have separate V-belts that drive the accessories. The Car Care Council says chances of a V-belt failure rise dramatically after four years or 36,000 miles, while the critical point for a serpentine belt is 50,000 miles. Any belt should be changed when it shows signs of excessive wear. But many new composite belts don’t show signs of wear until the failure occurs.
Timing Belt vs. Timing Chain
Replace the timing belt according at the mileage interval specified by the manufacturer
There is a major difference between a timing chain and timing belt. If the vehicle has a timing chain, there is no interval for changing it as a regular maintenance service procedure. However, if the vehicle has a timing belt, there is a very specific interval for replacing it. Timing belt replacement is generally recommended every 60,000 to more than 100,000 miles, depending on the vehicle manufacturer. Check ChiltonDIY’s maintenance schedules or the owner’s manual to determine the recommended service interval for your vehicle.
Transmission choices are a five-speed manual or a four-speed automatic. The latter had a driver selection for 1st and 2nd gears and an overdrive, useful for those using the towing (up to 2.tonnes) or carrying capacity the L200 offers.
All are four-wheel drive, Mitsubishi very proud of its Super Select 4WD system, which allows the driver to select on the move up to 62mph. It features M-ASTC (Mitsubishi Active Stability and Traction Control) which brakes individual wheels and apportions torque to others to help maintain control.
Canister vacuums are also popular — especially in the UK. They are a bit more versatile than uprights, because you can lift the canister and take it wherever you want to go. Canister vacs still tout a full-sized engine, so you gain versatility without losing power. They are known for working well on stairs, because you can carry the canister and use the long wand extender to tackle each level with ease.
These little mini-vacs are great for smaller jobs. Some are cordless, so they work well for quick and easy cleaning or as a compact on-the-go option for RV owners. It’s also a great supplement if your main vacuum doesn’t offer many attachments or if you’d rather not pull out your whole vacuum every time you spot a mess.
If you have asthma or allergies or are just generally concerned with air quality, a vacuum with a HEPA filter might be worth your consideration. Many of them are removable and can be cleaned with water until they need to be replaced. This might all sound really good, but some non-HEPA models can do just as well as their High Efficiency Particulate Air counterparts. So do your research — emission reduction can vary a lot.
How does the car sit? On a stock US version, ground clearance between the rocker panel and the ground should be about inches. If the car has been lowered to Euro specifications, you should have between 4.and inches of clearance. Sagging at one corner/side of the car indicates incorrect ride HEIGHT or worn suspension components.
Rust: All 944’s were galvanized at the factory – if it is rusting, it was most likely in an accident or was maintained poorly. The only exception to this is the battery tray. This area is prone to corrosion due to original Porsche batteries leaking acid. It should be repaired since the rust will spread, and water will leak into the car.
Wheel Wells: Look for the black plastic liner, is it intact, is it even there? If not, it may have been removed in the course of body repair
Bumpers: On the non-turbo models, is the front and rear bumper square to the rest of the body? If it is canted in on one side, the car was hit by something. This could entail nothing more than replacing a bumper shock, or could indicate hidden body damage. It is difficult to determine this on a turbo due to the car having a different nose and valence.
Under The Hood
Look under the hood, is the engine clean? A steam-cleaned engine can indicate a well-maintained car or someone trying to hide an oil leak. Pull the dipstick, how does the oil look? Frothy oil indicates a head gasket leak. Run the oil through your fingers, it should be smooth with no grit.
Oil Leaks:Do not accept the explanation “It’s a Porsche, they always leak.” That said, there are few places that the 2.5/2.7/3.0 engines do tend to leak, though generally, these leaks are small, and in most cases, you wouldn’t know it was even leaking. So short answer, puddle under car, or belly pan swimming in oil/power steering fluid/coolant = bad thing.
Front main seal- can be replaced when you do a front seal job – this leak should be small and tends to run along the engine case.
Upper or Lower balance shaft rear O-ring – these leak very slowly, and the labor involved in replacing them is not worth the effort or expense unless you are doing other major work to the car. Generally, it is the lower balance shaft that leaks, as the heat from the exhaust tends to speed the wear of the O-ring.
Give it the once over. Does it look good for its age? One word on dashboards – they crack. Invest in a good dash cover. You can order a new dashboard, but they are extremely expensive.
Smell: If the car smells like antifreeze, chances are good that the heater core is leaking. If the car is heavily perfumed, get down and smell the carpet. The smell of mold/mildew indicates a water leak somewhere.
Tool Kit/Air Pump/Jack/Spare Tire: Does the car have these? Many times, they are missing; nobody really knows where all of these missing tool kits go. Very helpful to have in the car, and can be expensive to replace.
Clutch Pedal:Look for a leak around the rubber boot sticking out of the firewall. Drips or oil indicate the Clutch Master Cylinder is going bad, an easy fix. Check the pedal – it should be stiff with no “slack”, meaning you feel resistance right away. If there is free play, the pedal needs adjustment, which is a simple do-it-yourself procedure. If the pedal feels spongy, the clutch master or slave cylinder is going bad, which fortunately, are not expensive to fix.
Parking Brake:Does it work? A properly adjusted parking brake should stop the car with the lever pulled or clicks. Otherwise, it needs adjustment or brake shoe replacement
On Engine Start
Motor Mounts:Does the car shake the fillings out of your teeth at idle? If so, the motor mounts are probably shot. Replacing them is not excessively expensive, but is labor-intensive.
AC system:Does it work? Porsche’s are rumored not to have the best AC systems – actually, they have systems as good as any other car, but they are rather expensive to maintain, especially since the price of R-1went up. So if it doesn’t work, the owner didn’t want, or couldn’t afford to fix it.
Sunroof: Does it work? This can be an easy or expensive fix, depending on what is wrong.
The Test Drive
The car should start up quickly. Did a cloud of black smoke or white smoke come billowing out? If so, the car either has bad rings, or a head gasket leak. 944s idle a little rough for about the first minute. After warm-up, the car should idle at 850 – 1000 RPM. Acceleration should be smooth, quick, with no hesitation or “flat spots”. In a manual transmission, the shifting should be smooth, without grinding, which may indicate bad synchro rings. Neither should there be any clunking or clanking as you change gears. If there is, it could indicate a problem in the clutch or transmission. Groaning or popping noises while driving could indicate bad CV joints. A popping noise while going over bumps could indicate worn ball joints. On power steering equipped models, the steering should be tight, meaning that if you turn the wheel ‘ to ‘ inch, you should be moving in the direction the wheel was turned. Howling or other noises are indicative of problems. Brakes should be firm. Porsches do tend to be “stiffer” than most cars, thus being a little rougher over bumps. After the test drive, park the car in a different spot – let it sit for a few minutes and check again for leaks.
Some critical things to look for in maintenance records
Water Pump:They wear out eventually, some last 50,000+ miles, some last 100,000 miles, it’s really a toss up. If it was replaced find out with what version of the water pump (early, mid or late). Not a difficult thing to replace, but is labor intensive, with special tools required.
Oxygen sensor:Should be replaced every 40,000 – 60,000 miles – Not an expensive item, an easy do-it-yourself.
Now That You Own One
Congratulations! If everything above checks out, you’ve just bought yourself a very fine automobile. Now that you are a Porsche owner, here are a few things you will need.
Towing:You will break down eventually, get the number of a few towing places that pull the car up onto a flatbed truck as opposed to a regular tow truck. Your local Porsche mechanic will give you a point in the right direction.
Your Mechanic: Build a good relationship with a mechanic that knows Porsches. If you are skilled and have the tools, you can perform a lot of repair work yourself. However, there will be times that you need professional assistance. Be wary of a garage that claims to work on Porsches, yet doesn’t have any in the shop. Ask owners in your area for a recommendation.
Scheduled Maintenance:Maintain your timing belt! Change your belts every 30,000 miles, and have them tensioned at 1,000 miles after replacement and at 15,000 miles. For a manual transmission, replace the fluid every time you change your timing belt. For automatics, change it at 15,000-mile intervals.
Oil Changes:If you live in a warmer climate, 15W40/50 or 20W50 are your best bet. Change your oil every 3000 miles with quality motor oil. You can get 10000 miles out of synthetic oil, but the filter should be changed every 3-4000 miles. You will save lots of money if you do this yourself. Most oil change places want to charge extra for the oil (non-standard grade) and an extra charge because you require more oil than normally allowed (5.qt. or more). Additionally, many oil change places will charge you a premium on the filter since they most likely do not have it in stock.
Fuel Filter:Change it every – 10,000 miles. Most likely, you will not find one in an auto parts store. Online/Catalogs or your Porsche dealer is the best source.
Spare Parts:With the exception of items like filters, if you can help it, avoid getting parts from a dealer, as they have the highest prices. Some general parts you can get from local auto parts stores. Your best source for most parts is from one of the online/catalog companies. Shop around, prices vary between catalogs/sites. Ask other owners where they get their parts. Avoid getting critical components such as alternators from retail stores, they tend to be cheaply rebuilt, spend the extra cash and get a proper part.
Books:If you are going to do your own maintenance, you are going to need some books. First thing to buy is the “Haynes” manual. It is not all encompassing, but it will give you a good starting point when it comes to repairs. If you really get into maintenance, you can invest in the factory service manuals.
Electrical:If you do any electrical work, the ground wire is brown.
Tools:Buy quality tools! Though they are more expensive initially, over time you will appreciate the investment. A good selection of quality screwdrivers, pliers, wrenches and sockets will serve you for many years. Though I am not advocating one brand over the other, Sears “Craftsman” or Lowe’s “Kobalt” tools offer excellent quality and a lifetime warranty while costing less than the “Professional” tools like Snap-On or Mac. Additionally, as stated above, some repairs require specialty tools. Generally, these tools are available through your Porsche dealer or from online/catalog companies.
Sockets – get 1point sockets if you can. You need shallow and deep sockets, some extensions and a few universal joints. You will need sockets with sizes ranging from – 30mm.
Wrenches – combination set, – 30mm, you may find it helpful to get of some of the common sizes (10, 13, 15, 17, and 19mm). A set of flare wrenches and a set of stubby wrenches are helpful and can be added later.
As stated earlier, Porsches are not drag racers. That said, there are a few upgrades you can do to squeeze some more horsepower out of the car without major or expensive modifications. Ask other owners and do some comparing.
Removing Catalytic Converter – Illegal in most states, but you can gain a few horsepower with a test pipe installed in its place.
Removing Balance Shaft Belt – – HP gain, at the expense of an engine with heavy vibration, accelerates the wear on the motor mounts.
Here is where Porsche ventured into unfamiliar territory. The 92wasn’t a sports car—it was technically a GT, but to modern eyes it looks an awful lot like a muscle car. After a 197European introduction, the 300-hp, front-engine, 4.7-liter V-coupe worked it’s way into the US as a somewhat muted 4.5-liter, 234-hp car. Fortunately, many earlier gray-market European cars snuck in, while others were unofficially upgraded.
By 1987, however, the US-market 928Swas making 320-hp—a 6.0-second car that could hit 165mph. Aside from the 1992-’9GTS, they’re all very reasonably priced, so there’s no reason to settle for one that has expensive needs.
That’s what comes with owning a Porsche. It’s not only a high-quality high-performance car which you can daily drive; it’s also one you can and should spend time getting greasy with. It’s a first sports car or a last one, a thing which deserves your passion and attention. They’re great cars—you should probably own one.
Porsches are neither unpopular, rare nor obscure, and there’s a near-infinite amount of support.Excellence magazine produces an annual 170-page Buyer’s Guide
Down the rabbit hole, far beyond the ragged edge of grip.
The Complete Buyer’s Guide to Affordable Dodge Vipers
Chain Saw Product Expert
Few things are more frustrating than breaking a chain part-way into a job.
One thing that can be more frustrating is failing to find the right replacement bar or chain for your chainsaw.
Make finding the right bar or chain easy, using this nifty bar and chain selector tool to find the match for your motorized helper.
Door seals can leak so check for wet carpets or a whistling noise at high speeds. Air conditioning compressors can fail, so always check the air con works. If it doesn’t, it could be a high-pressure switch or it could be the compressor – new replacements are over a grand!
We Show You What You Need And Where To Get It
When it comes to restoring your Mopar, there are several distinctly different ways to get the job done. If you have more money than time, having the car completely refurbished by a professional restoration shop is a nice way to go. You simply drop the car off with a deposit, then the shop does all the work for you, and you pick the car up when it’s finished (which usually involves writing a big check). At the other extreme, if you have the skills, knowledge, and tools you can perform all of the work yourself, replacing or rebuilding each part of the car until it’s perfect, and saving money in the process. If you’re like most of our readers, however, you fall between those two extremes, performing much of the work yourself, but farming out certain items like perhaps the engine, transmission, or bodywork and paint. But whether you do the job yourself or pay to have it done, and whether your car is being restored to stock specifications or highly modified, you’ll need to know where to obtain quality parts to do the job properly.
Having the right restoration parts for your Mopar really can make or break your project. No matter how much you spend on your car’s paint job, it just won’t look its best if the trim, chrome, emblems, and mirrors are worn, or pitted originals. Additionally, items like original marker lenses and taillights might look ok before your paint job, but can look faded and discolored when next to new paint. Seals, hood bumpers, window felts, and numerous interior items also need to be replaced during a restoration, and if your car is a specialty car like an A1Road Runner or a convertible, there are many parts that may be specific only to your car, making them even harder to find. While we used to enjoy scrounging around the scrap yards and swap meets, or finding a donor car to obtain parts from, the fact is these original parts are just as old as the ones on our car, and they’re getting harder to find. Luckily, there are more parts being reproduced for our Mopars now than ever before, so it’s a great time to restore your car to new or even better-than-new condition.
Back before muscle cars were considered classics, our choices were limited when it came to finding parts. We either had to clean up the original items on our cars and make the best of them, or try to find used items in better condition than the parts on our car. Alternatively, we could search the dealer networks for NOS pieces, but most of those have long since been purchased by savvy resellers, making NOS stuff expensive and hard to find. These days, Mopar enthusiasts have a different problem, as restoration parts are readily available from numerous sources, making it hard to decide where to get the parts we need, and whose parts are best for our project. This month, we’ll discuss the pros and cons of purchasing restoration parts from a high-volume warehouse distributor, your local restoration shop, or straight from the manufacturer to help you decide which source is right for you.
The Big Guys
As the automotive restoration hobby has grown over the past couple of decades, so has aftermarket support for those of us refurbishing our cars. Companies like YearOne, and The Paddock were quick to realize the scope of the muscle car restoration craze, opening up early-on to provide both NOS and aftermarket parts for our cars. Since then, these companies have grown dramatically and now nearly every available restoration part can be obtained through either of these sources.
Both The Paddock and YearOne also now carry factory style and high-performance drivetrain, suspension, and brake parts as well and are a great option if one-stop-shopping is your style. Since their facilities are large, these companies keep lots of parts in stock and likely have the parts you need on the shelf, ready to be shipped. They’ve also done their research well, generally know what fits and what doesn’t, and which suppliers to avoid. The larger companies also buy in volume and because of that can often offer discounts, especially if you purchase a large number of parts at once.
The Smaller Shops
While one-stop-shopping is right for some enthusiasts restoring their Mopars, there are also those who take their time, only purchasing parts for the area of the car they’re working on, and prefer to deal with smaller parts dealers or local restoration shops that also deal in parts. Businesses like P.G. Classic Restorations, Herb’s Parts, Dante’s Mopar Parts, Van’s Auto, Stephens Performance, Tony’s Mopar Parts, and even Mancini Racing and Glendora Dodge are among the plentiful suppliers of restoration parts for this type of customer.
Even if one of these shops isn’t located in your immediate area, don’t think you can’t get good customer service. Most of these sources have websites with internet ordering, and ship parts to customers worldwide. While they may not have the inventory that warehouse suppliers do, they often offer customized service, and can order the parts you need, even drop shipping them directly to you in some cases. There’s also a good chance the employees at these shops have performed the same work you’re doing, so they know what fits and what doesn’t. And if you happen to get the wrong part, it’s nice to be able to deal with the same person who sold it to you, not another sales person who may or may not remember your project.
Where to find one
The most common way to buy a GT-R is to import one from Japan. Even though the Japanese government makes owning an older vehicle difficult, the GT-R’s large fanbase means that well-preserved examples still pass through the auctions regularly. Pristine models are a rarity, so expect to dig deep into your pocket if you’re looking for a extremely clean example.
What to avoid
For the most part, the R3GT-R has benefited from an active fanbase and loving owners. However, we’re talking quarter-century old cars here, and that means all the usual Japanese-car red flags apply. Common sense would dictate that you’d check for rust anyway, but to be specific, Skyline problem areas are located around the inner rear fenders and below the rear window. You should also attempt to remove the rear spats and check for hidden rust there, as debris tends to accumulate and trap water.
Another physical Achilles’ heel for the GT-R are its jacking points. If jacked improperly, these can be easily bent and open the door for rust starting behind the side skirts. Real carelessness with a floor jack can result in mild bending of the frame.
The VIN plate on the R3is blue, and is located under the hood on the firewall on the right side of the car. If you suspect any tampering at all, run like hell.
2) Features – Today’s turntables offer a wide-variety of features in addition to simply playing the record. Knowing how you’ll be using your turntable and which features are most important will help you narrow down your search.
USB vs. Non-USB: One of the newest features to gain popularity among turntable manufacturers is the addition of a built-in USB port. The USB port allows you to transfer music from your records to your computer where you can then convert it to mpformat. For people looking to digitize large vinyl collections, specifically old or rare albums not available on mp3, having a USB port may be a priority. A word of caution, however. USB turntables tend to have a poor reputation among audiophiles who assert, often rightly so, that the costs of adding the USB port are often made up for by using lower quality components on the rest of the table. Do your research and listen to as many models as possible to ensure you’re not getting a high-tech dud.
Manual vs. Automatic: As mentioned previously, most higher-end tables utilize a manual cueing system, meaning you (the listener) must physically lift the arm and lower it onto the record and lift it back off as it reaches the end of the side. While this is slightly intimidating for beginners who worry about scratching the vinyl, it really is nothing cosmic and becomes second nature after a few attempts. However, if you’re the type of person that just wants to hit a button and let the turntable do the rest, then an automatic turntable may be for you.
Nutribullet Rubber Seals
Nutribullet replacement seals are the rubber rings found in the blade base assembly. You have to make sure you are getting the right seal because not all blade bases are the same size.
Rubber gaskets are pretty simple to make so there are now companies that sell inexpensive Nutribullet replacement rubber seals. The reviews can be mixed about these replacement washers. The main complaint from reviews is the gaskets can be little tighter than original Nutribullet gaskets. To be fair, some of the negative reviews I believe were using the wrong washer with their blade assembly. See my explanation below.
Deluxe Upgrade kit which includes extractor blade, 24oz cup, & 18oz cup for the same price that Nutribullet is selling extractor blade. (for 600 or 900 models depending on the blade assembly that you have)
What to pay
The cheapest unmolested Clio 18we found, in black with both Cup packs (suspension and bodykit) and 113K on the clock, was advertised at a curious £219It was a tempting prospect but approach such an apparent bargain with an open mind and an HPI check. The mileage needn’t be a problem in itself but a thorough history would be reassuring.
Doors & Windows >
Replacing old windows with new, energy-efficient models can really pay off in both aesthetic appeal and utility savings. Consult our guide to help you weigh your window options and figure out which styles and materials will work best for your home.
While the materials chosen for a window frame do influence its thermal characteristics, they play a much larger role in determining its physical properties, such as thickness, weight, and durability. Here are some of the most popular standard window frame options:
Different types of windows have different operating mechanisms and differently structured designs. Among the most common are:
Double-hung or single-hung: Both feature two sashes in a single frame, but in a double-hung window, both sashes slide up and down.
Rule of Thumb
The biggest rule of thumb that you need to keep in mind when choosing a dress belt is that it should as closely match the shoes that you plan to wear as possible. In a perfect world, the belt would be made of the same material that the shoes are, but that’s pretty rare, so instead focus on getting the colors close or the same.
In addition, a dress belt should be between 1/4″ and 3/8″ in width and about an 1/8″ in thickness. If the belt is any wider than that, then it’s a casual belt and not dressy enough for your purposes.
The material of the belt should be “full grain leather”. If it says “top grain leather”, “genuine leather” or just plain old “leather”, then it’s time to move on to the next belt. Those terms may sound like the belt is made of the best material, but they’re unfortunately code for sub-standard grades of leather. Go with “full grain” and you can’t go wrong.
Suede is another material that every once in a while crosses over from a casual belt to a dress belt. It’s not going to be the most formal of dress belts, but if the situation is on the more casual side of the dressy spectrum, then it could be worth looking at. The same suede belt could also be used for casual dress too, so fairly versatile.
Cotton is not a dress belt material. Don’t even consider it.
The finish on the leather should be shiny, so avoid any matte finishes. The shinier the finish, the better.
Many dress belts are feathered, or raised up in the middle with stitching, but some may be flat without stitching. There also shouldn’t be any excessive decoration or patterning on the belt. The simpler, the better.
The buckle of the belt should be polished and fairly minimalist without any additional or excessive styling. It should also be only one pronged.
As for buckle colors, polished gold goes well with brown or tan belts, and polished silver with black or navy belts. For other colors, feel free to contact us for our expert opinion.
Casual belts have a lot less rules and more flexibility depending on the situation, so you can get away with the same belt for a lot of different scenarios, or have many different belts that you use with the same outfit.
Casual belts are typically wider than formal dress belts, and range in widths from 1/4″ to 3/4″, with the most common size for jeans being 1/2″. They can also be thicker than a dress belt, ranging in thickness from 1/8″ to 3/4″ thick.
Anything thicker than 3/4″ and you’re probably not going to be able to effectively bend it around your body anyway.
Care & Storage
If you happen to get your leather or suede belt dirty, the first thing you want to do is to use a soft rag with some warm water and see if you can wipe away the mark. If it’s stubborn and won’t come out with just water, then you may need to use some leather cleaner with the rag to give it a next level clean.
Once the mark or stain is gone, then you’ll want to use a leather conditioner to replace the oils that the cleaner wiped away. Simply use a soft, clean towel and wipe on the conditioner, then let sit for 15-30 minutes until it’s absorbed.
Now that your belt is back to good condition, you can store it either rolled up in a drawer or shoebox, or you can use a belt hanger so that it hangs flat in your closet.
The Essential Belts that You Should Own
While we’re not advocating that you should have a different belt for every outfit, or even for every day of the week, there are a few quality, go-to belts that you should have hanging in your closet:
Formal Black Dress Belt – This is an absolute must have belt for pairing with every black or grey pair of dress pants.
Formal Brown Dress Belt – Following up immediately behind the black dress belt is a classic brown dress belt, for every pair of brown, tan, khaki or navy pants that you’ll wear in your life.
Casual Brown or Tan Leather Belt for Jeans – If you wear jeans or casual clothes every day, then this is going to be your most important belt to own. It’s worth investing in this, as you’ll be wearing it more than pretty much every other piece of clothing.
Casual Cotton or Suede Belt – Once summer rolls around, shorts will replace jeans or casual pants, so you’ll want a belt that’s more suited towards that. A cotton or suede casual belt is perfect for pairing with shorts or linen pants, and is a great belt to keep on hand for such a situation.
Unique or Statement Belt – This may not be quite an essential belt, but it’s still worth mentioning. A statement belt is going to be a bit more flashy than your classic black and brown belts. It may be a blue leather belt with red stitching, a ferrari red belt with white stitching or a wide yellow suede belt. Rather than blending in, this belt is made to attract attention.
There are plenty of other belts that you could own on top of the ones mentioned, but if you’re looking to get the essentials out of the way, then these should be the first items on your list.
Sometimes you search and you search, and just can’t find the perfect belt to match a specific pair of shoes or an outfit that you have planned. A lot of belt designs might be close, but just not exactly right.
At BeltCraft, we’ve created a special online tool to allow you to design your own belt, including material, stitching colors, buckle types, and more. Once you have your belt designed, then we’ll handcraft it specially for you, and ship it directly to your home or office.
Custom belts are also great options for gifts, either as a gift card to allow someone to design their own, or for a group, such as a groomsmen gift.
Overall, if you’re creative or just looking to add some uniqueness or personalization to your belt, then designing your own belt is a great option.
First of all thanks for reading my article to the end! I hope you find my reviews listed here useful and that it allows you to make a proper comparison of what is best to fit your needs and budget. Don’t be afraid to try more than one product if your first pick doesn’t do the trick.
Most important, have fun and choose your Replacement Belts wisely! Good luck!
So, TOP3 of Replacement Belts
- №1 — Sanding Detailer Replacement Belts, 80 Grit, 5-Pack
- №2 — Sanding Sticks Replacement Belts 20-pack, 5 each of 240,320,400,500 grit
- №3 — Lumberton Sanding Detailer Replacement Belts, 80 Grit, 10-Pack