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Home tools Buyer's Guides from tech enthusiast who loves technology and clever solutions for better living.
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Top Of The Best Humidity Meters Reviewed In 2018Last Updated November 1, 2018
№1 – Foobot [New Model] Air Quality Monitor – Automatic Control for a Healthy Air 24/7 – Best for Alexa IFTTT Nest – Temperature Humidity VOC Formaldehyde PM2.5 Meter – Works with iPhone & Android
№2 – VLIKE Digital Temperature and Humidity Meter Portable Hygrometer Thermometer with Ambient Temperature Dew Point Test Wet Bulb Temperature Humidity Monitor Gauge for Daily Life Industry Agriculture
№3 – AcuRite 00613 Humidity Monitor with Indoor Thermometer, Digital Hygrometer and Humidity Gauge Indicator
Pin vs. Pinless Meters
How They Work There are two types of meters on the market, pin and pinless.Both types of meters measure the effect of moisture on an electric current (pin type) or an electromagnetic field (pinless) to determine the moisture content (MC) of the wood (Photo 1).The beauty of a pinless meter is that it can quickly scan an entire board without putting holes in the wood.You can even take it to the lumberyard to test the wood before you buy; try that with a pin meter! One concern about pinless meters is that the sensor pad must be in good contact with the wood for accurate readings. Very rough or warped stock may leave too many air pockets under the sensor pad. I’ve found a few swipes with a block plane creates a nice flat spot to take your readings. Pin meters can take readings in wood no matter what the shape, size or degree of roughness. All that’s required is that the two pins make contact with the wood.Pin meters also allow you to use remote probes (Photo 2). Nails or probes can be driven to the center of thick lumber for core readings that are out of reach for pinless meters. If you dry your own wood, the probes can be left in a sample board in the stack to monitor the wood as it dries. Plus,pin meters can take readings on the edge of a board stacked for drying (Photo 3).
Species and Temperature Correction Temperature and wood density affect the readings given by moisture meters.All meters are calibrated to read the MC of Douglas fir at about 6degrees F. (The Timber Check is the only exception; it is calibrated for red oak). That means if you’re using a meter on something other than Douglas fir and the temperature is above or below 6degrees F, you’ll need to make adjustments to the meter reading. Manufacturers include charts that adjust for species and temperature variations. More expensive meters have built-in species correction and a couple have built-in temperature correction as well (see chart below). Just set the meter to the desired species and the meter automatically corrects the readings.This is a huge benefit when you have a lot of wood to test. Pin meters are more sensitive to temperature variations than pinless meters. That’s why pin meters always come with temperature correction charts. Some manufacturers include corrections for pinless meters should you need a very precise reading. Pinless meters,on the other hand,are more sensitive to differences in density,or “specific gravity”of different species than pin meters. That’s why pin meters with built-in species correction can get away with grouping species into a handful of settings while pinless meters generally require you to set the specific gravity of each species into the meter.
Pin Length A rule of thumb states that the average MC of a board can be found at a depth equal to 1/to 1/the thickness of the board. For example, 5/16-in. pins are long enough to get an average MC reading on a 1-1/2-in.-thick board and 1/2-in. pins will work for 2-in. stock. Remember,however, that this rule works only when the board has an even moisture gradient where the surface is drier than the core. It’s tempting to think that a pin meter measures the MC of the wood at the ends of the pins. In reality, the uninsulated pins measure the wettest layer of wood they come in contact with. Wood that’s been stored in a shed or shop can have a higher MC on the surface than the core. In this case, the reading only reflects the MC of the wetter outer surface, regardless of how deep the pins penetrate. To get an accurate core reading with uninsulated pins you can crosscut the board and take a reading of the core on the freshly exposed end grain. Insulated pins only measure the MC of the wood at the tips of the pins. They come with the external probe accessory that’s available with some meters.
Minimum Sample Size Pinless meters have a minimum sample size that’s dictated by the size of the sensor plate. The entire plate must be touching the wood you’re testing. So, a meter with a in. x in. sensor pad can’t be used on a board that’s only 1-1/2-in. wide. This precludes using most pinless meters to scan the edges of 4/boards stacked in a pile.
Moisture Content Range A range of to 20 percent is all you need to check air-dried or kiln-dried wood. You can pay extra for a meter with a range that exceeds 30 percent,but keep in mind that accurate readings higher than 30 percent are impossible because there is just too much water in the wood. People who dry their own wood use the higher readings to get a relative sense of how wet the wood is to start and how fast it’s drying. Turners and carvers who work with green wood may benefit from a meter with an extended range. At the low end of the MC scale, pin meters are accurate down to percent and pinless,down to percent.Readings below these levels are unreliable because there is just too little water in the wood.
Displays Both types of meters come in one of four types of displays (Photo 4): analog, LED (light emitting diode), digital LED and digital LCD (liquid crystal display). We like the digital LED and digital LCD best.Analog displays are inconvenient. A “hold”feature on the display is nice to have. Sometimes readings have to be taken in an awkward position or in poor light where it’s difficult to read the display. Being able to hold the reading until you can actually see the display can be quite handy. Some of the more expensive meters give MC readings with a resolution of 1/percent.The less expensive meters generally read out larger increments. But, that may be all you need for a go/no-go decision on your wood.
Built-In Species and Temperature Correction We think that built-in species correction is a feature you can live without unless you typically need to take readings on a large quantity of wood.A chart can be a bit of a hassle,but it’s no big deal if you’re dealing with just a few boards. Even with built-in correction, you may have to use a chart to find the right setting.
AHAM’s official website
AHAM’s official test specification website. Even though a number of different consumer publications reference the chart above and give the source as AHAM, the fact that AHAM is indeed the source cannot be verified because the chart, as it has been reproduced by those same publications, doesn’t actually exist anywhere on any of AHAM’s websites.
Only two of the capacities listed in the chart – 3in the second and third row and 30 in the bottom row – correspond to actual capacities of dehumidifiers you can buy in stores. Reading the top row of the table, there are no 10, 14, 18, 22, or 2pint dehumidifiers readily available for purchase anywhere online or in stores.
The chart has a limited range. It begins at 500 square feet and ends at 2500 square feet. What if the space you need to dehumidify is smaller than 500 square feet? What if it’s larger than 2500 square feet? The chart fails to make recommendations for spaces that fall outside of the given range.
The chart fails to take into account the height of the space you need to dehumidify. Rooms with higher ceilings contain more air than rooms with lower ceilings – something that the chart above doesn’t take into account at all. Much more appropriate would be recommendations based on the volume (measured in cubic feet ), not the area of the space you need to dehumidify.
The chart is likely based on an extrapolation of test data obtained in a highly controlled environment. It’s likely not based on actual experiments in environments corresponding to the actual conditions (moderately damp, very damp, wet, extremely wet) it makes recommendations for.
How can a dehumidifier manufacturer make the claim that their 70 pint dehumidifier can actually remove 70 pints of moisture per day? The manufacturer does so by voluntarily sending it to AHAM for testing. AHAM then measures the dehumidifier’s moisture removal rate in a laboratory that is set to exactly 60% relative humidity (RH) and 80º F.
We think it’s safe to assume that AHAM doesn’t actually conduct any testing in the “wet” or “extremely wet” conditions referenced in their sizing chart. It’s highly unlikely, for example, that they conducted testing in a room with wall or floor sweat (a room that would be classified as “wet” in the chart) or in one in which laundry drying occurs (a room that would be classified as “extremely wet” in the chart). The bottom-line here is that the chart is likely based on data obtained in a space much different than the space that you actually need to dehumidify.
The chart contradicts manufacturer recommendations. See this Friedrich dehumidifier brochure, for example. It recommends that a 70 pint dehumidifier be used for a 1,000 to 2,000 sq. ft. “wet” or “extremely wet” space which contradicts the 20 pint to 3pint recommendation of the size chart above for the same size space under exactly the same conditions.
The chart contradicts our own research and testing. Take for example, the chart’s recommendation that a 4pint dehumidifier be used for a 2,500 sq. ft. “extremely wet” space. Our own experiences with all of the dehumidifiers we’ve tested so far lead us to believe that a 4pint dehumidifier (which doesn’t actually exist, but that’s beside the point here) is not nearly of a large enough capacity to dehumidify such a large space under those conditions.
Clearly, we believe that the AHAM dehumidifier sizing chart has a lot of flaws. And, because of them, it is our strong recommendation that you do not use it to determine what size dehumidifier you should buy. So, what do we recommend? Our recommendation is simply the following:
Perfect. Nothing could have been done better
These 1scores are then added up to give the dehumidifier a cumulative score. It is largely this cumulative score that we use to determine the best dehumidifier in each size category.
A compressor dehumidifier has two cycles: • The cold cycle freezes the water, from the air drawn in, over the refrigerant coils. • The hot (or defrost) cycle then defrosts the ice and water is collected in the water tank.
A compressor dehumidifier will work on the principle of refrigeration. The compressor in a dehumidifier is similar to those found in domestic fridges (a rotary compressor). Compressor dehumidifiers are economical to run and efficient at temperatures above 15°C. Performance will deteriorate at temperatures below 15°C.
Water extraction is measured typically at 90% RH and 30°C for compressor dehumidifiers. A litre compressor dehumidifier will extract around 3-litres of water at normal domestic temperatures of 18°C – 21°C and a RH of 70%.
Typical power consumption is around 200 W for a 10-1litre compressor unit, operating at temperatures from 5°C – 35°.
During the last few years desiccant dehumidifiers (often referred to as absorption dehumidifiers or zeolite dehumidifiers) have really improved. Zeolite is a natural volcanic rock-type structure. This is formed into a honeycomb disc, which is placed inside the desiccant dehumidifier. As humid air is passed through the dehumidifier it is absorbed by the zeolite disc.
Desiccant dehumidifiers have a heating element that heats the zeolite; this discharges the absorbed water into the water tank. As there is no compressor gas, but a natural rock in the absorption disc; desiccant dehumidifiers are very ecological. The zeolite regenerates itself during the heating process.
Desiccant dehumidifiers are able to perform at temperatures close to freezing point. An litre desiccant dehumidifier will extract litres per day even at 5°C, provided that there is enough moisture in the air. Desiccant dehumidifiers are able to dry beyond 40% RH if required. They are ideal to use in domestic and office environments as well as storage spaces, unoccupied houses, garages and boats.
All modern dehumidifiers, whether a compressor or desiccant model, boast a range of features including things like an auto stop (when the water tank is full) or a permanent drainage option.
Top of the range dehumidifiers benefit from features like a humidistat, timer, ioniser, directional louvers, advanced air filters, auto restart and intelligent power management features.
Using a dehumidifier will help to create a healthier environment by reducing humidity, controlling mould and mildew, etc. Less humid air also heats up quicker, so a dehumidifier can help to reduce your energy bills. * RH = Relative humidity is a measurement unit representing the amount of moisture in the air at a specific temperature compared to the maximum amount of moisture that the air can hold at that temperature and is a percentage value. Hot air can take more moisture in than cold air. The higher the RH the higher is the risk of condensation. 100% RH means that any additional moisture in the air will immediately condensate.
How to get the most out of your dehumidifier
For a dehumidifier to work at its best it is a good idea to keep doors and windows closed while you are using the appliance. Place the dehumidifier away from walls, curtains, or any furniture, this enables it to create a good air flow. You could also vacuum first, in order to remove dust particles. You can move a dehumidifier from room to room.
It is recommended that you use it on the highest setting for a week or two. You can then place the dehumidifier in a hallway or corridor, leaving your doors open, and it will regulate humidity levels. Depending on the capacity of the unit, a dehumidifier may be able to regulate the humidity across the whole house, if not you could use one on each floor.
For permanent installation, make sure that correct hose is used at the back of the unit. This hose needs to be plumbed correctly allowing sufficient drainage. If you use a dehumidifier in a cellar or want to pump excess moisture upwards or for a long distance, we recommend using an inline pump with the machine.
Note: Room height has been assumed to a standard of 2.meters. Properties spread over several floors will benefit of one unit per floor, unless the humidifier is intended to be moved between floors. Compressor dehumidifiers with Hot Gas Defrost technology (HGD) will work fine from 3-35°C
We stock home and offices dehumidifiers, portable dehumidifiers, desiccant dehumidifiers designed for general domestic and light use. For bespoke dehumidifiers applications, commercial and industrial use, building dryers, swimming pool dehumidifiers, please contact our trade dehumidifiers division for expert advice and tailored solutions.
Fast & Accurate Location of Damp Areas
We all know that damp can be hugely destructive in a wide range of materials. Understanding damp levels in a particular area or material can help guide important decisions – helping to avoid costly mistakes!
There are a variety of probes available from standard and universal to more product specific probes. If you need to measure moisture levels within a wall you may want to consider ‘Deep Wall Probes’. These allow you to measure moisture at depth within walls and other structures.
USDA, Consumer Reports, and this website are unanimous: If you use a good digital thermometer and handle food properly, you can reduce the risk to zero. Below I explain how thermometers work, why some are better than others, why you cannot trust the old ways of cutting into the meat, and I debunk some myths.
Where to stick it
Most grills come with cheapo thermometers that are an afterthought to manufacturers and are usually bought bulk from cheap producers. To make matters worse, the probe is located high in the dome well above the food. Unless you plan to eat the dome, this is a bad place for the thermometer. You need to know the temperature where the food is. So put the probe about 2″ to the side of the food (it is cold and there is a cold air bubble around it), and about 1″ above the grate (it is hot).
Some thermometers, like the Maverick, come with a handy clip that does the job just fine.
If you don’t have a clip, use a ball of foil. Make sure the tip, where the sensitive parts are, protrudes from the foil.
Listen to this email from a reader “I had been clipping the probe on the underside of the upper rack. That had the probe about 3″ to 4″ above the top of the meat. My food was taking much longer to cook than your recipes say. So I tried the probe in that location for about 1/hour and then moved the probe to the cooking surface, clipping it to the cooking grate about 4″ to 5” below the previous location. The difference in temperature was about 2to 30°F cooler at the cooking grate location! I never would have believed it! So in actuality, when I thought I was cooking at 22to 230°F, I was actually cooking at 19to 200°F! No wonder everything was undercooked!”
Fill a tall glass with ice cubes, not crushed ice, add cold water, and let it sit a minute. Insert the probe and make sure the tipis not below the ice or touching the ice. The temp below the ice can be several degrees above 32F (0C) and the temp of the ice can be below 32F. The experts at ThermoWorks say “Make sure the probe is in the middle of the ice water mixture and then gently stir for best results.” The ice water test does not vary with altitude.
Focus on your goals
Like their indoor counterparts, every smart garden device does one or both of the following: senses the environment around it and/or automates a task. Smart outdoor devices will thus help you learn about your environment, help it thrive or both. Robot lawn mowers focus mostly on automation, but still need to sense enough to stay within the boundaries of your yard. Both plant sensors and weather monitors focus mostly on senses, but can still send you push notifications and act as triggers for other automation devices. Connected sprinklers gather weather information, and use it to automate a watering schedule.
Except for some robot lawn mowers, all smart outdoor devices have accompanying apps and communicate with the cloud in some form or another. And that’s the end of the similarities of smart garden tech. Given how vastly different the devices are, you can quickly narrow your choices just by focusing on what you’d like your new smart gadget to accomplish. Are you a seasoned gardener looking for assistance to help you save time? Are you an enthusiast trying to collect data? Are you a busy homeowner hoping to cut your water bill? Are you an apartment dweller who struggles to keep a houseplant alive?
This is the only category of smart outdoor tech that can actually be used indoors, making them great for keeping a potted plant alive. Even the simplest plant sensor we’ve seen measures soil moisture, and compares that info against a plant database to give you specific advice about when to water that species of plant. You’ll even get push notifications reminding you to water from all plant sensors we’ve tested, so you can steer clear of accidental procrastination.
Even more of a niche item than most smart garden tech, weather sensors can be quite useful in certain scenarios. They’re the optimal device for learning more about your surroundings in general. Plus the included sensors can be used to monitor sensitive areas of your home, like a wine cellar or a child’s room. Short of having a specific use in mind though, you might not find much value in these devices beyond what you can get from the dozens of free weather apps.
If that’s the case, you might need a device with a specialized signal. Your options include frequencies such as Z-Wave and ZigBee — which use less power than Wi-Fi, but need a hub to translate the signal for your router. The Blossom Smart Watering Controller supplements its Wi-Fi signal with a power line connection, which uses the electric wiring in your home to transmit signals.
You might also find devices that use Bluetooth, which connects directly to your smart phone and uses less battery than Wi-Fi, but doesn’t let you access your device remotely. The GreenIQ Smart Garden Hub — a smart sprinkler controller — goes one step beyond Wi-Fi using cellular signal provided by US carrier AT&T, allowing you to stay connected to your device even if your router fails.
Tube can be difficult to fill properly
Some reviewers found the pH result to be inaccurate and recommended sending soil samples out to be tested
We rated the Luster Leaf 160Rapitest Soil Test Kit 5.0 out of stars, and is the editor’s choice for an inexpensive, easy to use test kit that provides fast, simple, and accurate results. No experience is necessary to perform the 40 different tests included. This kit provides four separate color comparators for N, pH, potassium, and phosphorus. The simple process involves taking a sample of soil, mixing it with a little water, transferring a portion of solution to the unique color comparator, adding a little powder from the capsule, shaking it, and then watching the color develop. Note the test results, and you’re ready to go – all in a few minutes!
Easy to use soil meter is eco-friendly, and its portable, compact design is convenient for either outdoor or indoor use
Moisture sensor doesn’t work well if the plant name isn’t listed on packaging
We rated the pH Soil Meter, 3-in-Soil Tester Kit 5.0 out of stars, and is an excellent moisture meter, light, and pH acidity tester. Its responsive probe senses soil changes and displays accurate values to the user. No electricity or batteries are used by this product, making it environmentally friendly. Moisture is measured by inserting the probe completely into the soil to reach the root level. The correct moisture level will be displayed, and the user simply needs to refer to the included chart to find out watering needs.
Light is measured by holding the meter next to a plant and facing a light source (don’t touch the sensing element which is located underneath the gauge!). Check light level and refer to the included chart for correct light requirements. To test soil pH, insert the probe into the soil. A pH reading that’s less than is acidic, and readings greater than indicate an alkaline soil.
Probe is a little too long and soil must be very wet for pH to respond
Meter tends to give random results, necessitating 3-measurements for each plant
This quality dual soil pH and moisture meter is rated 4.out of stars (by us), and provides simple, accurate checking of soil moisture level and pH balance (alkalinity and acidity). Its extra long probe allows users to measure significantly below a plant’s root zone. This meter is perfect for commercial use (orchards, vineyards, lawn maintenance, and field production) and home use (planters, lawn maintenance, and gardens).
This product includes moisture and soil pH meter and instruction manual. It works as advertised, gives accurate pH level readings, and is good for either commercial or home use.
A few reviewers noted that the soil meter was inaccurate and occasionally showed the wrong pH and moisture measurements
The Dr. Meter Soil Moisture Sensor Meter And Hygrometer Moisture Sensor For Farm, Garden, And Indoor And Outdoor Plants is rated 4.out of stars according to our testing. This product features simple-to-read moisture levels (utilizing scales), a portable, compact design, and is perfect for either indoor or outdoor use. It features an 8-inch stem for full root level penetration. Just plug in the probe and you’re ready to measure your soil’s moisture content!
This 4-in-instrument is a light and temperature sensor (measures sunlight intensity and temperature using an in. (200mm) probe), and also tests moisture and pH balance. Readings are clearly displayed on a large LCD screen. This product also features an automatic power-off function and a low battery indicator.
The serial number or production number.
Now you know which model you have and from what year it is, this is already important information to determine the approximate value your Rolex. Next you should find out if your Rolex is still all original or if it has non original parts / later service parts. It takes years of practice to learn to compare vintage Rolex in detail but despite this I will try to help you in the right direction.
As your reference number tells you which model you have you now start comparing your Rolex with one from my „reference” list below. Your focus should be on the typo used on the dial, the exact form of the Rolex coronet and if present, the bezel typography. Search for similarities but again, this needs to be done precisely. For your information, the indication „Swiss” or T SWISS T or SWISS T<2at o’clock indicated there was use of luminous on the dial. The first „swiss” only was in use before 196and means the dial is containing radium luminous. This changed in the 196to Tritium with the T SWISS T or SWISS T<2markings.
Here are some general advises for checking out the originality of your vintage Rolex:
So below the reference number is 653for Rolex Submariner Big Crown produced between 1956-1959, then below you see I.56, which means it left production at first quarter 195and all the way down you see a stamp that has shortly been used around 1956, the 1which stands for the (high) quality of steel that has been used.
Now you have an idea of which Rolex model you have, from what period it’s made and if it’s still in original condition (or at least parts of it ) you might want to check out the value by searching the sales results of the mayor auction houses which specialize in offering vintage Rolex. Every specialized auction house has it’s own database of achieved results. Find below a direct link to each of these databases where you can enter the info of your vintage Rolex to find out what a average sales price is in the market since last years.
Every angle is still sharp, the side from the bezel, no marks on the crown or side of the case and also not on chamfer of the bevel.
A unused bracelet is still stiff, you need to bend the links. When removing the band with the push pins before polishing, it will always leave trace marks on the case. That is why the lugs are often sealed with tape before band removal. A clear sign of a service polish are the drilled lug holes, or better yet the sharpness of the lug hole edges. Because once polished, these lug holes will lose the original sharp edges.
Following is a GMT Ref 654also unpolished and unused. Hard to believe that these almost 60 year old Rolex have been tucked away and now see the daylight. In a scale of impossible to find these unused miracles are listing top position. Collectors grail.
Another part to check if a watch has been polished are the chamfers, the bevelled edges between the matte part and the middle case. Tool watches like the Daytona or dresswatches like the DateJust and Daydate did not have chamfers. You will only find them on the Submariner, Milgaus, GMT-Master and Explorer II. Perhaps because of this rarity and value, bevels are particularly loved by vintage collectors. A bevel was merely for esthetical purposes. Each model had its own bevel, the bevel on the GMT-Master was a bit smaller than the Submariner one. This has to do with the fact that the Submariner model was thicker than the GMT-Master and the Submariner winding crown larger.
Another indicator if a watch has been polished or not, is by looking at the fine lines on a watch. If these are not straight, the polishing has been done by hand. Unpolished watches only have a manufacture polish, meaning the case has a satin polish that was done at the Rolex factory before all parts were assembled.Every place where wear and tear could happen is still unused, the crowns, the case back, the lugs, the sides, bracelet, crystal. If you compare the case with the band, you will often see a difference in finish because the band is easier to polish than the case. The lugs are especially difficult to handle, so this is an area that requires extra attention with your magnifier. While attempting to make the case matte again, there will always be a 1mm spot against the edge, impossible for a polishing machine to reach. In fact, you could only do a proper polishing job by taking the whole watch apart.
First of all thanks for reading my article to the end! I hope you find my reviews listed here useful and that it allows you to make a proper comparison of what is best to fit your needs and budget. Don’t be afraid to try more than one product if your first pick doesn’t do the trick.
Most important, have fun and choose your Humidity Meters wisely! Good luck!
So, TOP3 of Humidity Meters
- №1 — Foobot [New Model] Air Quality Monitor – Automatic Control for a Healthy Air 24/7 – Best for Alexa IFTTT Nest – Temperature Humidity VOC Formaldehyde PM2.5 Meter – Works with iPhone & Android
- №2 — VLIKE Digital Temperature and Humidity Meter Portable Hygrometer Thermometer with Ambient Temperature Dew Point Test Wet Bulb Temperature Humidity Monitor Gauge for Daily Life Industry Agriculture
- №3 — AcuRite 00613 Humidity Monitor with Indoor Thermometer, Digital Hygrometer and Humidity Gauge Indicator