Welcome to Buyer’s Guide!
Home tools Buyer's Guides from tech enthusiast who loves technology and clever solutions for better living.
Home tools Buyer's Guides from tech enthusiast who loves technology and clever solutions for better living.
Check Today Price
Top Of The Best High Intensity Discharge Bulbs Reviewed In 2018Last Updated November 1, 2018
№1 – GE Lighting 26421 50-Watt LUCALOX HID High Pressure Sodium Medium Base Light Bulb, 1-Pack
№2 – Philips 140947 High Intensity Discharge High Pressure Sodium 70-Watt ED23-1/2 Mogul Base Light Bulb
№3 – GE Lighting 26427 100-Watt HID High Pressure Sodium Mogul Base Light Bulb, 1-Pack
There are three main categories of light bulbs
Light-emitting diodes where light is generated by passing current through a semiconductor material (LED lights).
Before we go into details with low and high intensity discharge bulbs, we need to understand what a gas discharge lamp is.
GAS DISCHARGE LAMPS
While almost anyone knows what are incandescent bulbs, not so many know what are gas discharge lamps, although they had (and still have) an important role in indoor and outdoor lighting. Some gas discharge lamps may look more similar to incandescent lights, while others, such as fluorescent lights, can have completely different size and shape.
The working principle of gas discharge lamps is very different from incandescent bulbs, instead of heating a filament to produce light (which is not very effective, because a lot of energy gets wasted as heat), they produce light by creating an electric discharge through an ionised gas. This allows to create light at various colors, depending on the type of gas used in the lamp or the inner coating of the tube, and also notably improves the efficiency and lifetime of the bulb. Gas discharge lamps also require special ballasts to control current flow supplied to the lamp.
High pressure discharge lamps
High pressure discharge lamps contain pressurized gases such as argon, xenon, neon, krypton, mercury, sodium and others inside a small arc tube located in the lamp. Gas inside high pressure discharge lights has similar or higher pressure (up to 30 Bar and more) than atmosphere (approx. Bar) and some of these lamps operate at very high temperatures up to 3000° C (5400° F). Because of the high pressure and intense discharge, these lights can be made in a smaller size than low pressure discharge lamps.
Thanks to their power and brightness, high pressure discharge lamps are used to illuminate large indoor and outdoor areas such as stadiums, arenas, warehouses, parking lots, shops and others. Examples of high pressure discharge lamps are mercury vapor lamps, high pressure sodium vapor lamps and metal halide lamps.
Low pressure discharge lamps
Low pressure discharge lamps have gas inside the bulb in much lower pressure (about 30 milli Bar for fluorescent lights) than atmospheric pressure (approx. Bar) and they operate at moderate temperatures at about 40° C (104° F).
Low pressure discharge lamps are known for their high energy efficiency, so bulbs such as fluorescent and compact fluorescent are commonly used in household and office lighting. Some examples of low pressure discharge lamps are previously mentioned fluorescent lamps, low pressure sodium lamps (which are one of the most efficient artificial light sources) and neon lights.
High intensity discharge lamps is another category of gas discharge lamps. These lights work by creating an electric arc between electrodes (usually made from tungsten) located in a semi-transparent or transparent arc tube. The most common examples of high intensity discharge lamps are metal halide lamps, sodium vapor lamps, mercury vapor lamps and xenon arc lamps.
Now lets look specifically at high intensity discharge or HID lights.
High pressure sodium lamp
An arc is created between both electrodes that will be used to vapourize mercury, sodium, metal salts (or other substances depending on the type of the lamp) inside the quartz tube and produce intense light.
The gas inside the tube is ionised and acts as a conductor. Free electrons flow between both electrodes in the electric field and collide with gas molecules, knocking electrons into a higher level, when they go back into the previous level, they emit energy in form of radiation. The color of the light will depend on the type of metal vapor used in the lamp. What differs low pressure discharge and high pressure discharge lamps is that the second ones have much higher concentration of excited molecules in the tube, so in result they can produce much brighter light.
At the end of the life, HID bulbs start to act differently, for example, some bulbs, as they get older, require higher voltage to maintain an electric arc between electrodes which increases the heat inside the tube. In a result, the fixture turns off and needs to cool down before it can turn on again. This process will repeat more frequently as the lamp gets older.
Also, when a HID lamp gets closer to the end of its life, it can start to loose color of the emitted light or in other words, start to fade. The process also happens because the lamp needs higher voltage to operate, which increases the temperature inside the discharge tube and results in a failure of the lamp.
Video showing how a high pressure sodium lamp warms up and changes color while elements inside the arc tube vaporize. The first element that glows is xenon in sky blue color, next is mercury in bluish green color and last is sodium in orange color.
HID lamps, similar to fluorescent lamps, require a ballast to operate. The main functions of a ballast in a HID light is to start the lamp and control the current supplied to the lamp so it can maintain an arc between both electrodes, or in other words, it controls how the lamp operates. A HID light can have either an electronic or a magnetic ballast, in addition the ballast has a capacitor for converting volts and amps into power and in some fixtures an igniter and pulse start system to start the lamp.
Basically, how a HID ballast works is it provides enough voltage to strike the arc using a striker which is integrated in the ballast itself, the higher voltage must be supplied until an arc has been established, after that the voltage is reduced to the level necessary to maintain the arc.
The method used to strike a HID lamp differs based on the type of the lamp, for example, mercury vapor lamps are started using a third electrode that is located close to one of the main electrodes, but high pressure sodium lamps, on the other hand, are mostly started producing pulses of very high voltage.
Once the arc has been stablished, the main function of the ballast is to limit the current output, obtaining the optimal working temperature of the light and cutting off the power, incase the voltage and the heat inside the tube gets too high, to prevent the lamp from failing and possibly exploding.
Keystone HPS HID ballast
Besides striking the lamp, a ballast performs few additional functions such as controlling the output and brightness of the lamp. Ballasts also have to know when to re-strike a bulb that had been working at optimal temperature before it turned off, because not all types of HID lamps can be restarted instantly and some lamps require a cool down period.
It is important for a ballast to keep the voltage and temperature of the lamp at the optimal performance range, which guarantees that the lamp produces light at the proper color temperature and also ensures the lamp reaches its rated life time. For a HID lamp to work properly, the correct type of ballast must be used that matches the electrical requirements of the lamp.
Mercury vapor bulb
Mercury vapor lamp is the oldest type of high intensity discharge lamp, it has been around for more than 80 years and had an important role for lighting up large areas such as factories, streets and other areas.
The lamp creates light by producing an arc between two electrodes through vaporized mercury in a high pressure tube made from fused quartz. Because the lamp operates at a high pressure, it can produce light directly from the arc. The discharge tube is covered by a larger glass bulb which is serving the purpose of insulating the heat inside the tube for better performance and protecting everything outside the bulb from ultraviolet radiation.
High intensity mercury vapor lamps were mostly used as a street lighting in early days, but have been widely replaced by sodium vapor lights or recently by led flood lights. Because of the long life span of up to 24000 hours and high intensity, these lights were also used to illuminate large indoor areas such as factories, arenas, warehouses and similar. Today, other types of HID lights such as sodium vapor and metal halide and also LED lights have replaced the older mercury vapor lamps in most applications due to higher efficiency, better color rendering, increased durability and safety, and longer life span. However, mercury vapor bulbs are still used in applications such a landscape lighting, parking lot lighting and in security lighting.
How do mercury vapor bulbs work
The arc tube of a mercury vapor lamp is made from fused quartz glass that can withstand extremely high temperatures.
Inside the arc tube are two main electrodes made from tungsten, and near the main electrode that is located closer to the ballast is a starting electrode used to start the arc, it is connected to the other main electrode through a resistor. Starting electrode helps to reduce the amount of voltage the lamp requires to start.
The arc tube is filled with argon gas that is ionised to create arc and solid mercury that gets heated and vaporizes as the pressure and heat inside the tube increases. The argon gas strikes quickly but it can take few minutes until the mercury vaporizes and produces intense light in a bluish color.
The outer bulb that protects the inner parts is made from a borosilicate glass and may be coated with a fluorescent coating to improve the color rendering of the lamp. Ballast is used to limit the current passed to the arc and prevent lamp from breaking.
High pressure sodium lamp low pressure
The first (low pressure) sodium vapor lamp was introduced in early 1930s and while it had its advantages over other existing lighting sources, such as high efficacy, there were also some problems with these lights, such as lower brightness and very narrow light spectrum, producing an intense yellow color which made them pretty much useless for indoor and outdoor lighting where color rendering is very important.
When the first low pressure sodium lamp was introduced, it was known that by increasing the pressure inside the arc tube, a bulb with improved energy efficiency and color rendering could be achieved. However, non of the materials present at that time used in bulbs couldn’t resist the high pressure and heat inside the tube, so in 195a material called Lucalox (aluminum oxide ceramic) was invented by General Electric. Few years after this invention the first practical high pressure sodium vapor lamp was introduced by GE.
High pressure sodium lamps differ from other types of high intensity discharge lamps as they contain a mixture of xenon and sodium-mercury amalgam, which gives the lamp its orangish glow. The arc tube is made from a translucent ceramic material that can withstand high chemical activity and extremely high temperatures up to thousand degrees celsius (over 2000 degrees fahrenheit).
Xenon is used as the starter gas until it warms up the arc tube for mercury to vaporize, and while it vaporizes, the temperature inside the tube continues to build until the sodium starts to vaporize too, shifting the color of the lamp to more orangish. The color of different HPS lamps can vary depending on the brand of the bulb.
Because of such advantages as high efficacy and relatively long life span, these lamps are used in variety of applications, such as:
How do high pressure sodium lamps work
High pressure sodium vapor lamp consists from a compact arc tube surrounded by a glass bulb to protect the inner parts, keep temperature inside the lamp and filter UV radiation. The HPS lamp, similar to other high intensity discharge lamps, requires a ballast to operate.
The arc tube is made from aluminum oxide ceramic and has got a high pressure inside for higher efficiency. Inside the arc tube there is a mixture of xenon gas and sodium-mercury amalgam. On both ends of the arc tube two electrodes are located made from tungsten.
High pressure sodium lamps usually are started using an ignitor that sends pulses with high voltage through the arc tube using an external electronic circuit that is built into the ballast of the lamp.
HID flood light
As this article concentrates on high intensity discharge lights, we will leave LEDs off by now, although they are steadily replacing HID lights in many indoor and outdoor applications where flood lights are used.
Metal halide VS High pressure sodium lamps. Which bulb is better for HID flood lights?
So in applications where high intensity discharge lamps are required, either metal halide or high pressure sodium lamps are the ones to choose from, because both of them have replaced older mercury vapor lamps due to their noticeable drawbacks such as lower energy efficiency.
To compare both types of lamps, we will look at different aspects such as energy efficiency, longevity, color rendering and price, to determine which type of lamp is better at different applications where flood lighting is required.
Efficiency is important for any type of lighting, especially for high power outdoor flood lighting that consumes a lot of power and where energy efficient lamps can significantly reduce electricity costs.
When it comes to efficiency, high pressure sodium lamps are hard to beat. They are more energy efficient than metal halide and even LED lamps. If energy efficiency is your only concern, HPS lamps are your best choice for flood lighting.
In many applications, this is the most important aspect to consider when purchasing a flood lighting. With a good color rendition it is much easier to recognise colors of objects, which is very important in retail applications, as well as for safety and security. A good color rendering index is considered 80 and above.
Poor color rendition makes HPS lamps unusable in retail applications, where the buyer must clearly tell the color of the product. Correct color rendition is also important for security and safety, as it is easier for both humans and security systems to recognize the face and other characteristics of a burglar such as the color of its clothing or car in white light produced by metal halides rather than orange light produced by high pressure sodiums.
Also, people perceive white light to be brighter than it actually is, allowing to use less powerful lamps to reach the same effect as with lights that produce, for example, orangish color as HPS, this allows improving energy efficiency when using metal halide lamps.
HID street lights
The last factor that many consider when purchasing flood lighting is their price. When choosing a high power flood light, other factors such as the design of the fixture as well as the durability and ingress protection makes up the largest part of the fixture’s price, and there is not that much of a difference which type of HID bulb you choose, as both MH and HPS lamps are priced very similarly.
TFluorescent grow light fixtures for indoor gardening are all-in-one systems. This means no external ballast is needed and they have built in reflectors. In most cases they will come with bulbs installed and may even offer a grow or bloom version.
CFL grow lights for indoor gardening are usually either smaller 25w medium base socket (standard light socket) or 125w CFLs. Be sure to purchase industry specific lighting and not just standard lighting found in supply stores. Indoor gardening industry CFLs are self-ballasted, meaning they screw into a CFL reflector and are ready to go. Most cheap 125w CFLs found at general lighting supply stores have a non-ballasted bulb because they are designed for outdoor lighting fixtures with a built-in ballast.
The trade-off for the simplicity and lack of heat comes in the form of less usable plant growth specific light and less light penetration. Many growers use fluorescent lights for veg growth only or as supplemental lighting in the flowering stage. It can produce lackluster results as the primary light source during the bloom stage due to the lack of light penetration. If you use fluorescents for the flowering stage, a canopy growing method like a screen of green should also be used. This helps maximize the fluorescent lighting and reduces the need for penetrating light.
Dual Arc Lamps
Dual arc lamps are another bulb type for HID lighting. While a dual arc lamp is technically a HPS lamp, dual arc lamps contain both bulb type components and emit a more natural, fuller light spectrum. For example, a 1000W dual arc lamp contains a 600W HPS component and 400W MH component.
The vegetative stage of plant growth is time to have more intense light. Fluorescents are still commonly used, though with larger fixtures and more bulbs. LEDs are great for the vegetative stage too and even the older; low-technology LEDs do a decent job during this stage. Many growers have moved their older LEDs that aren’t well suited for the flowering stage to their vegetative room and experienced good results. HID Metal Halide grow lights have been the gold standard for the vegetative stage for the past few decades. They produce good results and can be used with larger plants that less intense lights like fluorescents. Ceramic Metal Halide is becoming popular and is praised for its performance during the vegetative stage of plant growth well.
HID lighting, specifically HPS grow lights, is the preferred bloom lighting for most grow rooms. Their lower initial cost and consistently good results make them ideal for most growers. High-end bulbs produce even better and the use of specialty bulbs, like finishing spectrum bulbs, can boost results even more by adding more of the frosty quality that wide/multi-spectrum lights like LEDs offer. Some growers are also using Ceramic Metal Halide for their bloom grows, though they perform better as vegetative stage lights than bloom.
There is no clear winner in our recommendation as there are many trade-offs and differences, with some being the preference of the grower and their style. T5s are our least favorite for this stage. But if they are used properly with a canopy scrog, they can provide good results. Due to the ease and affordability T5s can be a good option, just be sure to grow it right.
Features of a mountain bike light
Lamp body (head unit): This houses the LEDs, the lens in front, the reflectors behind, the circuitry that makes it all work and the fins or ribs that radiate away as much heat as possible.
LEDs: Most lights now use LEDs (light emitting diodes), because they produce more light for less power than a conventional bulb and are far less fragile than HID lamps. Technological advances mean performance has leapt forward in the past few years and each new season brings significant upgrades.
Optics: The reflector and lens in front affect how the light is thrown down the trail. Focused spot beams are great for seeing a long way for a given output; wide flood beams give good peripheral vision.
Mount/bracket: How you attach the light to your bike. Most mounts use clips and spacers but O-rings are a great simple solution. If you are thinking of using a helmet mounted light, you need a lamp that’s light enough to be comfortable and secure on your lid, rather than a neck snapper. You’ll need an extension cable and helmet mount too, so check if that’s included or an optional extra.
Battery: The bit that powers the light. Lighter, tougher, far more random charge resistant lithium ion (Li-Ion) chargeable batteries have revolutionised mountain bike lighting compared with older lead acid and NiMH batteries — but battery and lamp efficiencies still vary dramatically. Most brands sell extra batteries (often at a discount if bought with the light) so you can always swap halfway. Check your batteries are properly prepared for maximum performance (this should be in the instructions) and take a back-up until you know you can rely on their run times.
Switchgear: The switch not only turns the light on, but also lets you change power output levels. It needs to be easy to operate while riding, even with gloves on, but hard to operate accidentally. Many lights now use backlit switches that double as mode and/or run time indicators using traffic-light-style colour changes. Switchgears now range from a simple push button sequential mode switch with low battery warning light to wireless bar-mounted units or switches that can also change the different output levels and menus.
Head or bars
Most lights come with both bar and helmet mounting options. Which is better comes down to personal preference, but here are the pros and cons of each.
The result — it’s a draw! In reality the best solution is to use helmet and bar-mounted lights, even if you have to buy lower powered units to afford both. It also means you have a backup should one battery die.
Amp-hour — A measurement of battery capacity. The bigger the capacity, the longer your lights will run. You need to divide this value by the amperage the light operates at in order to get the theoretical run time
Bag — A cloth pack that holds the battery onto the bike’s frame
Bar mount — Light bracket that fits around oversize (31.8mm) and/or older 1in (25.4mm) diameter handlebars
Battery cell — The single units that wire together to create a battery pack
Bottle — Plastic water bottle converted to hold a large capacity battery
How we test mountain bike lights
Being stuck on a wet winter’s night, miles from anywhere with a failed light or everything suddenly going pitch black halfway down a technical descent is a really serious matter. That’s why we take our lights testing extremely seriously.
There’s no substitute for time on trail in all weathers to find out this crucial stuff — and we’re not just talking about lights used in the past few months. We also reference the sets we’ve run long-term to get in-depth, worst case use feedback that’s directly relevant to the riding you do.
Product reviewer Guy Kesteven tests run times and cooling
The science side
As is often the case with mountain biking, the scientific part of the testing is the easiest bit. Lights (lamp body plus handlebar bracket) and batteries are weighed on our scales.
We then measure the useful maximum power run time (to when the output fades and low battery warning lights come on) with pre-conditioned (used and recharged) batteries in the highest power setting on an air cooled rig to mimic the cooling effect of riding at night. We also measure the maximum casing heat of the lights with a thermal probe to see if any get dangerously hot.
Light output is calculated using a lux (a measurement of one lumen per square metre) calibrated industrial light meter placed 5m from the lamp in a blacked out workshop. (If the light has more than one beam or head unit we measure both separately and their combined output.)
This method does favour spot beams over flood beams, but it’s still a more trail translatable measurement than the lumen potential of LEDs. The coverage, density and other specific characteristics of the beam are often more important than the peak brightness though, so we also take beam photos to make it easier to compare the lights.
The practical side
It’s the feedback we get from real world usage that really sorts out often very similar lamps in terms of trail performance. When it comes to our test conditions we’re talking serious sorties, often two or three times a week all year round in every trail condition imaginable. Baked hard river bed runs that’ll shake a poor bracket or fragile circuit board apart in seconds or leave a badly bagged battery hanging by its lead; sub-zero tundra trudges that freeze a battery to horribly low maximum power run times; drownings in downpours and hip-deep bog crashes.
Most of our lights have seen it all and, if the most recent versions have only been hammered through summer, we’ve certainly put the models preceding them through the most testing ride schedule possible. Repeated group riding, bike switching, recharging and battery flattening gives us the perfect comparative testing cluster too, so any failures or fading is immediately obvious rather than going unnoticed in isolation.
In other words, if a light scores well, you know it’s gone through some proper optical and electrical purgatory to prove itself. For that reason, for all of our latest lights testing we’ve deliberately stuck with established (at least a year old) lights manufacturers to ensure anything we recommend is a fully supported product.
Light output is calculated using a lux calibrated industrial light meter placed 5m from the lamp in a blacked out workshop
Apex Xenon Headlights Conversion Kit
The Apex Xenon HID Conversion Kit is one of the least expensive, yet one of the highest rated HID kits reviewed. Nearly everyone who purchased this kit had great things to say about the ease of install and quality of the kit. Apex states that this kit will fit almost any vehicle.
Average install time for this kit is less than 20 minutes with “minimum knowledge required for 90% of vehicles.” The Apex HID kit features 100% digital ballasts for continual regulation of power to the bulbs and universal installation connectors so no splicing or cutting is required. This kit comes in the following colors/color temperatures: green, pink, purple, 3000K, 5000K, 6000K, 8000K and 10,000K. Apex also provides a 2-year manufacturer’s warranty.
Why It Made The List: Installation time is a huge factor in our reviews — and this HID conversion kit installs in about 20 minutes.
The Best HID Headlights: What they are and how they work
High-intensity discharge (HID) headlights have become very popular over the past few years. They also operate a little differently than the traditional halogen bulb. Instead of having a filament which glows when electricity is conducted through it, HID headlight bulbs have a small chamber of gas that glows when ignited. The gas will actually remain lit when supplied with constant 12v power after the initial ignition by a charge of more than 23,000v. This glow is defined as color temperature (which we will talk more about in a minute).
HID headlights will also produce more light than traditional bulbs while consuming less power. It has been observed through studies that HID bulbs can produce up to 3x more light. While producing more light, HID bulbs will also draw up to 80% less power than traditional 55w halogen bulbs. They can actually fit right in the place of OEM headlights on most cars with little to no modification required.
HID Headlight Kits: You can install them in your own car
Installing a HID conversion kit is relatively simple, but if you encounter issues, your mechanic will surely help you out.
HID headlights have become popular largely in part because manufacturers have worked hard to develop do-it-yourself kits. These DIY HID headlight kits are not only easy to install, but they are are often universal.
Good HID conversion kits come with everything you need to install them at home. They contain the bulbs, wiring and the ballast. Some of the higher quality kits or vehicle specific kits will come with additional parts that are sometimes necessary for converting your current headlight setup into a premium HID headlight. The bulb portion of the kit is pretty straight forward, as are the wires. The one device that people aren’t as familiar with is the ballast. The ballast is responsible for initiating and regulating the flow of electricity to the HID headlight bulbs.
The ballast must be able to provide the initial voltage spike to ignite the gas in the bulb. It must then control the current to provide the proper amount of volts required for maintaining the arc. Ballasts must also be smart in that they need to be able to handle the restriking of an already hot bulb.
Color temperature: Choosing the correct color for your HID kit
The glow emitted from the HID bulb is actually referred to as color temperature and is a hue of the light source. This HID light characteristic is often mistaken for brightness.
First you start with a black body (the HID lights in their non-charged idle state), then raise the temperature of the gas inside until it reaches a specific temperature. That temperature corresponds with a color.The temperature is measured in absolute temperature, Degrees Kelvin (K). Color temperature is actually related to “warm” and “cool” light tones. Higher temperatures (5000K and above) produce light that we consider “cool.” While low color temperatures (below 5000K) produce “warm” light. The cool light resembles blue-ish white and violet hue and warm light resembles yellow-ish white to red hues. One rule of thumb is that visibility will actually be reduced if using color temperatures below 4300K and color temperatures above 8000K.
Dark blue light close to violet on the color spectrum. Visibility is actually reduced at this temperature.
Know the lighting lingo
Know the lightbulb basics: (Quartz/Incandescent) Tungsten-Halogen – These compact light sources are filled with halogen gas, making for a longer bulb life and brighter, whiter, warmer light. Available in both line-voltage (120 volts) and low-voltage (1volts), some of the most popular halogen bulbs are:
Light Emitting Diode (LED) bulbs are the most recent addition to the residential bulb market. These lamps use 80% less energy than incandescent and last up to 50 times longer. Excellent for task lighting, night-lights, and outdoor applications, they are more expensive than most lamps, but their durability, long life, and energy-efficiency will save you money in the long run.
How to upgrade your lighting responsibly
HID or High Intensity Discharge headlamps have become popular lighting upgrades for car enthusiasts. Also known as xenon lamps, they produce light with an electric arc rather than a glowing filament found in traditional tungsten and halogen lighting. HID lighting can produce more light with less power, making it a more efficient lighting system. However, it is costlier than a normal tungsten-halogen bulb, since it requires an additional ballast to ignite it.
BMW introduced the first xenon headlamps for the 7-Series in 199Many enthusiasts have since gone on to upgrade their cars with HIDs to mimic the lighting of premium models which come with HID lighting straight from the factory.
While HID kits are immensely popular with the amount of light they produce, they can also produce a lot of glare when installed in reflector headlamps designed for halogen bulbs. Many European countries and certain localities in the United States have started regulating the use of such lighting. In the US, lighting products that do not conform to FMVSS 10are not street legal. Europe imposes strict ECE regulations against improper lighting products, they even require self leveling and lens cleaning systems, features of which are not available in aftermarket kits. In the Philippines, regulation of lighting is a gray area.
They start by carefully removing the necessary parts (bumper, grill,and headlight assembly) to ensure a trouble free install. The headlamp cover is removed to make way for the retrofit upgrade. The projector is mounted on the original reflector bowl making the install as OEM-looking as possible. For fine tuning, the original leveling screws on the headlights can still be used after the retrofit process.
The bespoke wiring harness is then laid out carefully to ensure a clean install with an OEM look and feel. The wiring harness connects the power supply to the ballasts and bulbs. An independent fuse and relay system makes sure both the lighting system and the vehicle’s electrical systems do not interfere with each other.
After installing the projector, the technician makes sure it is properly aligned to ensure optimal placement. Beam alignment is done with a flat wall with special markings 2feet away. Once testing and alignment is completed, the headlamp cover is sealed back with an OEM-spec headlamp sealant to make sure there is no condensation or leaking. Depending on application an optional shroud may be installed. All installations come with a one-year warranty.
Diagram of an HPS Bulb
HID stands for high-intensity discharge. HID lamps are electrical gas-discharge lamps. This means that they produce light by creating an arc of electricity between two electrodes that are housed inside a tube filled with a noble gas. They provide much more light per watt (i.e. are much more efficient) than traditional incandescent and fluorescent bulbs. There are several different types of HID bulbs, with the main difference being the gas they contain. HPS and MH bulbs are two of those types.
Beam patterns is a potential downside of LED systems simply because of the limited choices available, but as each generation of systems comes out the options will improve. Early units tended to have quite narrow beams but without the oomph to penetrate far enough for high-speed riding, but things are getting better.
HID Xenon Colour Chart
We should also advise that over 4300k (OEM standard) may be illegal in your area. Please check your local road laws prior to purchase.
STEP 3: Decide if you want a 35watt or 55watt HID system.
So for the pupose of discussing brightness in HID kits, we only use “lumens”.
Traditional Halogen globes put out around 700 – 1200 lumens of light.
55watt HID are best suited for spot lights or high beams.
Therefore we always recommend using 3watt globes on any lights that will be used for low beam, and save the 5watt HIDs for spotlights or single beam high’s.
100 watt HID Kits (when you not only want to light up the kangaroos ahead, but burn their eyes out!!)
Our standard 3watt HID kits are suitable for most (pre 2004) 12-volt vehicles and come with an 1month replacement warranty. The digital ballasts are “slimline” size (for tight installations), and the globes will last around 3000 hours.
Our Deluxe HID kits come with the higher quality CANBUS compliant, slimline, digital ballasts, and use better quality “Philips patent license” globes. They are only available in 1volt, but are available in 3or 50 watts. If you have a European car manufactured around 200or later (or even the latest model Australian Ford / Holden) then you’ll need to confirm with your car service department to check if your car uses CANBUS. If it does, then you’ll need to buy this kit for your HID system to work successfully.
If you have a late model car, but are not sure if it is CANBUS or not, then you’d be safe to choose this kit – as you can successfully use a CANBUS HID Kit on a NON-CANBUS car (just not the other way round)
NON CANBUS HID kits installed on CANBUS cars tend to blow the ballasts within months or worse still, could damage the car’s electrical system. You may also get the “headlight warning” alert from your car’s computer if you install a NON CANBUS HID kit into a CANBUS vehicle – since the computer is looking for a 5watt load on the headlights, but is only seeing the 3watt load from the HID ballasts. especially true
Aquaponics is one of the most interesting systems used to grow plants. It is also one of the simplest. By using an aquaponics kit, an aquarium is easily converted into a living ecosystem, where plants and fish co-exist in symbiotic bliss.
First of all thanks for reading my article to the end! I hope you find my reviews listed here useful and that it allows you to make a proper comparison of what is best to fit your needs and budget. Don’t be afraid to try more than one product if your first pick doesn’t do the trick.
Most important, have fun and choose your High Intensity Discharge Bulbs wisely! Good luck!
So, TOP3 of High Intensity Discharge Bulbs
- №1 — GE Lighting 26421 50-Watt LUCALOX HID High Pressure Sodium Medium Base Light Bulb, 1-Pack
- №2 — Philips 140947 High Intensity Discharge High Pressure Sodium 70-Watt ED23-1/2 Mogul Base Light Bulb
- №3 — GE Lighting 26427 100-Watt HID High Pressure Sodium Mogul Base Light Bulb, 1-Pack