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Home tools Buyer's Guides from tech enthusiast who loves technology and clever solutions for better living.
Home tools Buyer's Guides from tech enthusiast who loves technology and clever solutions for better living.
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Top Of The Best Figurines Reviewed In 2018Last Updated January 1, 2019
№1 – Resin Red Laughing Buddha Figurines Lucky Happy Buddha Statue-Set of 6-about 2.5″
№2 – Toperkin Rhinoceros Bronze Sculpture Home Decor Metal African Animal Figurines Rhino Statue TPAL-272
№3 – Safari Ltd People TOOB With 7 Everyday Heroes Figurine Toys, Including Construction Worker, Policeman, Mailman, Pilot, Chef, Fireman, and Veterinarian
You may be familiar with Mattel and its range of MegaBlox and MegaConstrux that have featured the designs of the Halo universe. Well in 201Mattel got the master licence from 34Industries which allowed them to expand into developing a range of 6” and 12” halo figurines. These figures are of incredibly sturdy make and despite appearing to lack some vibrancy in colour, they still look amazing.
Removable Grenade Canisters
On to his accessories, Emile comes standard with an M4Tactical Shotgun, removable Kukri Knife with sheath and removable grenade canisters. Coupled with led lights on the removable armour pieces Emile is definitely worth the admittedly steep price.
The details are incredibly well done, complete with battle marks and intricate lines in their armour and weaponry which give them a more authentic feel. These Halo figures are designed to be bright and vibrant to capture the essence of each individual and make them stand out a little more. Not only that but Mattel does not have just a single figure in this series, having Spartans and Covenant from all over he Halo franchise giving you plenty of variety.
With over 30 points of articulation, swappable weapons and mix-and-match armour pieces, it is no surprise these Halo figures are some of the best in the market currently. Their bright colours mean they would look amazing standing watch on a shelf but make no mistake, these Halo is a game franchise that has been running for almost 1years and has spawned numerous spin off games, novels, background lore, speculation and of course action figures/toys.
It’s possible to get by if you order something now that you currently can’t pay for, but it’s not a good idea and not sustainable.
If you’re just starting out, the rule of thumb that you should follow is “only buy things for which you have the money!” See below for details.
Get one at your local bank if you don’t already and deposit your money into it. A checking account is preferred over savings if you’re going to be buying frequently, since most banks impose a transaction fee for free savings accounts after the first few times.
You do not need to have money in your Paypal balance to pay. Once you link your bank account and a card (can be either debit or credit) to Paypal, and you have a zero Paypal balance, then transactions via Paypal are charged to your card instead and should clear instantly.
You can set it up so that your credit or debit card is charged in the original currency instead (¥) without using Paypal’s exchange rate. Be aware that this means the exchange will be done by the card’s company (e.x. MasterCard, Visa) only when the credit card is charged (when you have to pay) and your bank may charge for foreign transactions. Instructions below.
To do this, go to Profile > My preapproved payments > Set Available Funding Sources > Conversion Options and choose “Bill me in the currency listed on the seller’s invoice”.
When doing a manual payment, enter the payment first using the correct currency, and on the second screen, under “Payment Methods” it will probably list instant transfer from your bank account, and under the conversion rate, click “Change” to charge your card instead.
Living from paycheck to paycheck is dangerous. We recommend always having at least a couple hundred dollars backup just in case your grail or something you hadn’t planned for suddenly becomes available. Or real life gets in the way (e.g. car accident, sudden illness, douchebag roommate).
Keep track of your money
Things add up very, very quickly. Keep a list of all purchases and their details somewhere. Here are some examples in Excel since it can do calculations for you: Here and here.
Also keep an eye on your bank account. Step back every once in a while and consider the big picture. How much have you spent lately, and how much will you need to pay in the future?
READ THE FAQ OF YOUR MERCHANT
What it says on the tin. Especially the sections regarding payment methods, shipping types, grouping/holding, cancellations and returns. Or else you’re going to bitch on /a/ about SAL, and everybody will make fun of you, faggot.
Shit is expensive “Public” services
EMS (express mail service), SAL (surface air lifted), airmail and surface mail/seamail
These are handled by the national postal service of the country a package is in (Canada Post, United States Postal Service, Royal Mail, etc.). These services are generally weight based and subject to some size restrictions. SAL and EMS cannot ship to APO or AP addresses (PO Box addresses are OK).
Big in Japan ★
Low prices for some items (even lower than Amiami sometimes), limited/exclusive figures are sold, they accept upfront payments and have proxy and forwarding services. It will take a very long time to receive a response to an email, if they ever do. If you wish to have a package undervalued, then ask them to value to a specific amount in the
Determining Antique Lenox Figurine Values
The best way to determine antique Lenox values is to purchase a current price guide. Do be sure that it is current because the values can change rapidly. A price guide that is more than a year or two old is not very accurate. Make sure you understand the descriptions of condition because the condition your figurine is in will have a huge effect on the value. For example, an item in the original box can sell for fifty percent more than an item without its box.
You can sign up with the Collectors’ Information Bureau. Registration is free and allows you to research many collectible items. This group tracks the sales of collectibles to help you stay up to date on the values. It also allows you to network with other collectors. This can be helpful if you wish to sell pieces from your collection later on.
Some Recent Lenox Values
While the value of collectibles can change from month to month you can get a pretty good idea of the value of your figurine by checking what they have recently sold for or are selling for on trusted sites. Lenox has created a variety of collectible figurines from angels to animals. (Prices shown are as of 2010)
If you want your figurine to become an heirloom and eventually an antique you should follow these tips:
Villains- You also might want to get some villains to add a little variety to the campaign on the Imperial side. Some of the more popular ones are the Royal Guard Champion and Boba Fett. Since the Royal Guard Champion card already comes in the core set, you could just play with that and use a regular royal guard model, but the model for the Royal Guard Champion is really cool, and the mission to earn him as an ally comes in his pack, so you might want it. And having Boba chase around the heroes alongside the Imperial troops just feels right. I would probably go with Boba.
Caveat: To play in Store Tournaments, you will need the map tiles and map cards for whatever maps are in the current rotation just to participate, which will usually mean the newest big box expansion and some of the new figure packs. Make sure to check what is in season before you go to a tournament.
A follow-up to the Mod-T printer — which we reviewed in 201— is in the works, with the finished version shipping to Kickstarter backers in spring 201We’ve added it to our New & Notable section alongside a full-color 3D printer from XYZprinting that won Best of Show honors at the IFA 201trade show.
What to Look for in a 3D Printer
Printing materials: Whichever type of printer you choose, pay attention to the type of material it can use to print. The filament material used by FFM printers like the LulzBot TAZ is available in several different materials, such as PLA (a brittle, biodegradable material), ABS (the same plastic used in Lego blocks), nylon, TPE (a soft, rubberlike material) and HDPE (a light, tough polystyrene). Many of these materials, particularly PLA and ABS, are available in a huge range of colors. Filaments come in two sizes: 1.7mm and mm, which are not interchangeable.
MORE: 3D Printing Materials: Pros and Cons for Each Type
SLA printers have fewer options than their FFM counterparts, but printers like the Form can use resins that produce models ranging from very rigid to flexible and rubbery. The best printers can use a wide range of materials, each of which comes with its own strengths and weaknesses. (HDPE, for example, is light and tough, but not suitable for food use, while nylon is food-safe.)
Note that some printers only allow the use of approved materials or materials produced by the same company that made the printer. In that sense, those types of 3D printers are like more traditional paper printers: The manufacturers sell the hardware cheaply and then make money back on the consumables. (Our top budget 3D printer, the da Vinci Mini, only works with PLA filament from manufacturer XYZprinting, for example; however XYZ’s filament costs about the same as most third-party materials.) Other 3D printers place no restrictions on the type or origin of the material.
We have a comprehensive look at the different types of 3D printing materials, along with their pros and cons, and how much you can expect to spend on each.
Print volume: All printers have limits on the size of the 3D print they can produce. That limit is defined by the size of the print bed and how far the printer can move the printhead. This is usually measured in cubic inches, but you should also pay attention to each of the individual dimensions, which determine the maximum size 3D print the device can create. So, for example, if a printer like the LulzBot Mini has a print volume of 22cubic inches (6.x x inches), it can print objects that are up to just less than inches high, wide and deep.
Print speed and quality: 3D printing is a slow business, and at present, there’s no way to get around this. You should expect a 3- to 4-inch model to typically take between and 1hours to print, depending on the print quality you select. That’s because of the way 3D printing works: The print is constructed in layers. The thicker these layers are, the quicker the print is produced but the lower the print quality is, as the layers become more visible. So, there is a trade-off between print speed and print quality.
The best printers will allow you to determine which way you want to go with this, producing prints quickly or more slowly but at higher quality. The best printers offer a wide range of quality settings, from fast (but low quality) to slow (but high quality).
Layer height range
You’ll pay a steep price for Ultimaker’s latest printer, but if you’re a design professional or serious 3D-printing enthusiast, the Ultimaker is more than worth the cost. Print quality is excellent — some of the best we’ve seen from a 3D printer, even in draft mode — and the Ultimaker supports a wide range of materials. Excellent software makes it easy to manage prints, and a redesigned printhead with two swappable extruders adds to the Ultimaker 3’s impressive flexibility.
Polaroid’s entry-level 3D printer, introduced as the PLNat CES earlier this year, sports a number of features that make it ideal for home use, such as an enclosed print area with locking door and a print bed that isn’t made of metal to keep it cooler to the touch. At 10.inches all around, the Polaroid Nano is designed to fit easily into a home or classroom, and it can produce prints up to 4.x 4.x 4.inches. We were expect to see this printer in 2018, but it’s now listed as having a January 201ship date.
How CGI Is Ruining Your Favorite Movies
However much we marvel at “these new-fangled special effects,” sometimes they can get in the way of actually enjoying a film. Let’s look at how CGI is ruining your favorite movies.
Read More ) and 1970s–80s Lego sets, the tips and tricks I picked up apply to any toy in reasonably good condition (and some that aren’t).
Perhaps you collected Kinder Surprise toys! It could be anything.
Research Your Toy’s Value
To get started, you need to know what you’re planning to sell is worth. At this stage, you don’t need to take anything off of any shelves, or get anything out of the attic — as long as you know what you have, and what condition it is in, you can research its value.
You’ll find such sites with a quick Google search
1Advanced Searches To Bookmark To Become A Google Power User
1Advanced Searches To Bookmark To Become A Google Power User
Turn yourself into a true Google power user with these 1advanced searches and pro tips. This will make sure you never have to recall these searches and yet will always have them at your fingertips.
Understand the Importance of Keywords
Wherever you’re selling the item, make sure you clearly describe it in the listing title, using its most recognized name, followed by the condition it is in. This is useful both for the listings page of the site you’re using, and any search engines that might be indexing the listing site or its sub-categories.
Second guess what potential buyers might type into Google to find your item, and work with it.
Promote Your Auction
Read More. Or you might be avoiding it (plenty of security experts would say this is a good idea
Read More ) completely, or prefer to list your classic toys for sale on dedicated websites and forums.
But you will need people to know about the auctions. What better way to do this than to share the auction on Twitter, Facebook, or perhaps even Snapchat or Instagram?
Social media contacts might like to know about the sale, or have friends that might like to know more. Additionally, specialist websites dedicated to toys (or particular toy ranges) might have a discussion forum
How We Talk Online: A History of Online Forums, From Cavemen Days To The Present
How We Talk Online: A History of Online Forums, From Cavemen Days To The Present
Let’s take a step back and think about the wonders of modern technology for one second. The web has made it possible to participate in near-instant communication on a global scale. Join me as I…
Read More where you can alert fellow members to your sale. Be careful to abide by the site rules, however, and avoid spamming and repeated posts — these are frowned upon!
Mandarake is a monolith of a building. Each floor is dedicated to something different — be that doujinshi, games, or anime. Their figure floor has an excellent selection, though it comes at a cost: Mandarake is often one of the more expensive places to shop. However, the chances are they may have what you seek when other stores in Akihabara do not.
The MakerBot Replicator+ is the successor to the popular MakerBot Replicator 3D printer, and the new version has brought improvements to nearly every part of the Replicator. This means the Replicator+ is faster and quieter than the previous version, while maintaining its excellent design and safety features. This desktop 3D printer is expensive, but it offers excellent print quality, and uses 1.75mm polylactic acid (PLA) filament. It’s also user-friendly enough for home users and hobbyists to use – as long as your budget can stretch to the high asking price.
Design can make removing printed object difficult
If you’re looking for a budget 3D printer, then there really is no better option than the XYZprinting da Vinci Mini. It remains one of the most affordable ways to get into 3D printing, and also the easiest, thanks to an easy-to-use interface. Just because it’s a budget model, doesn’t mean it doesn’t produce good results, and the 3D printed objects it creates are very impressive considering the price – and size – of this 3D printer. Speaking of size, the XYZprinting da Vinci Mini is an impressively compact printer that makes it easy to store in an office or on a desk.
Open frame design
The Ultimaker 2+ is a 3D printer that offers amazing print quality, making it one of the best 3D printers for professional use. It is incredibly reliable when it comes to producing 3D models, and the accuracy of the 3D replications is incredibly impressive. If you need a 3D printer that can reliably reproduce many 3D objects accurately, this is a fantastic choice. However, it is expensive, and the fact that it is aimed at professional environments means it’s less beginner-friendly than some of the other 3D printers here. Home users are better off looking elsewhere.
If you’re looking for a first 3D printer to learn the ropes with, then the LulzBot Mini is another excellent choice. It’s got a decent price, and is easy to use, though the print speed is quite slow. The hardware is open source, which means it has a flexibility that propitiatory hardware lacks, as a committed community of makers can work together to create add-ons for the printer.
Hasbro BB-2-in-Mega Playset
This BB-playset sort of reminds us of Kenner’s good old Darth Vader Action Figure Collector’s Case from the 80s.
We put this on the list because why wouldn’t you want the creepiest plush toy ever brought to the market? The Snoke Itty Bitty Plush Toy is the stuff of nightmares.
There’s a new disturbance in the Force. BB-9E is a menacing astromech droid of the First Order. Control your BB-9E App-Enabled Droid with your smart device or watch it patrol on its own. BB-9E houses sophisticated tech, allowing it to roll and move his dome just like on-screen, and its strong exterior allows the First Order droid to weather any battle. This vigilant and intimidating droid is always on high alert.
BB-9E specializes in keeping starships and machinery fully operational with its many features. Keep BB-9E sharp with the augmented reality Droid Trainer and explore holographic simulations from the
Star Wars galaxy. Watch BB-9E interact with other Star Wars App-Enabled Droids by Sphero, and view films from the
Star Wars saga with BB-9E reacting by your side. This is NOT the droid you’re looking for… it’s the droid that’s looking for you.
First and foremost, you need paint brushes. High-quality paint brushes cost several dollars each, but this kind of quality is not necessary for beginning painters. However, you need to avoid purchasing the least expensive brushes you find. Generally speaking, these brushes are inexpensive for a reason. They tend to shed and will frustrate you, not help you become a better painter. You should purchase a basic brush set that is not from the bargain bin and that has an assortment of brush sizes.
Flat brushes are good for painting large surfaces, such as vehicles, while round brushes are best for detail and people. After some of your brushes start to wear out, retain them for use as ‘dry brushes.’ Dry brushing is a technique that allows you hit raised surfaces with a highlight without changing the color of recessed areas.
Always take the time to wash brushes as soon as possible after using them. Even small amounts of paint in a brush’s bristles hardens and ruins the brush, unless clean it extensively using a paint thinner. When I paint, I keep a cup of water and a paper towel on hand. As soon as I finish using a brush for the time being, I rinse it off in the cup and then place it on the paper towel to dry. Do not leave brushes sitting in a cup of water because it bends the bristles and ruins the brush. After I am finished painting for the time being, I rinse all the brushes out thoroughly under running water and carefully reshape the point before storing them. Most brushes come with a protective plastic sleeve. If you can remember to replace the sleeve, you can ensure the brush does not get damaged in storage. If no longer have the sleeve, store the brush, handle-end down, in a cup or jar.
Modern acrylic paints are just as durable as enamel paints but are easier to clean up.
Once you have brushes, you need paints. You need to choose between acrylic, water wash-up paints and enamel, oil-based paints. Traditionally, people have associated enamel paints with better wear over time. Today’s acrylic paints are just as durable as enamels, but do not need paint thinner to clean up. Especially if you are just starting to paint, I highly recommend using acrylic paints.
There are several brands of paints made specifically for miniatures, but you can also choose to use acrylic craft paints. If you decide to use acrylic craft paints, the paints will need to be watered down. A good rule of thumb is to water down paints until they have the consistency of milk.
If you want to save the hassle of watering down paints, invest in paints made specially for miniatures. Model Master and Tamiya paints are readily available in many hobby and craft stores, but I am not a huge fan of either brand for painting miniatures. In my experience as a miniature painter and former hobby-store employee, these paints are better suited to scale model building, not painting miniatures. Instead, seek out brands known for high-quality paints intended for use on fantasy or historic miniatures. Historic miniature paints come in replica colors to mimic uniform colors and vehicle colors. Fantasy and sci-fi paint lines tend to have more bright colors, such as brilliant blues, purples, and greens. Some companies, like Vallejo, make historic and fantasy lines. Games Workshop makes some of the easiest to use sci-fi and fantasy miniature paints. Reaper Minis also makes a high-quality line of miniature paints.
If you are new to painting, you may be surprised that a tiny jar or eye-dropper style container of paint costs several dollars. It is well worth the investment, and the paints last a long time because you use so little for painting a miniature. I have some bottles of Games Workshop paint from 199that are still perfectly usable!
What is an Antique
When we talk about the value of an antique, we can mean several things. I greatly value the things passed down to me from loved ones and would never part with most of them as the sentimental value is too great.
Maybe I never met my great grandmother, but I look at her beautiful Flow Blue china and can touch something that she touched. The family came to the United States during the Irish Potato Famine in the mid 19th century. My great great grandfather was a laborer. So, I know that this lovely dishware meant a lot to the family. It meant that they had arrived into the middle class, that the family was established enough to spend money on a few fine things.
I remember seeing the Flow Blue at Auntie’s house, how it was rarely used, but treasured, set in a bow front cabinet to be looked upon – not touched. This is the most valuable antique of all. It’s priceless!
Value and Conditon of Antiques and Collectibles
I have a beautiful porcelain figurine of a young girl holding up the skirt of a pleated dress. Fifteen years ago, I found some information about the figure that was made in the late 1800’s or early 1900s by the Gebruder Heubach Company of Thuringia, Germany (Gebruder being German for brothers). The figure can be identified by the look of it,and the mark on the bottom, as with most valuable china and porcelain pieces. The mark is a divided circle with a sunburst on top and two over-lapped letters below.
Unfortunately, someone very close to me (who shall remain nameless, but you know who you are) knocked the figurine’s head off some 40 years ago. The head was neatly glued back on but the damage was done. No way I would ever get anywhere near the suggested price because it is damaged.
Which brings me to
The Condition of Antiques and Collectibles – Take Care of Your Old Things
Take proper care of your antiques and collectibles. Keep them out of harm’s way.
Do not attempt to refinish a piece of old or antique furniture. Part of the value of an old piece is determined by it’s patina, the changes that occur in the aging process. If you remove old paint or finish, you may destroy both the charm and value of the piece.
Do Not Assume
Just because something looks old, or someone else thinks that it is old does not mean that the item is actually old.
This lovely lamp may appear to be old or antique to some people, but was purchases at TJ Maxx in the 1980s. Not old.
Often older pieces, or antiques are copied and sold just because they are so darn pretty. These reproductions can be fun to buy and use but they do not have the value of a genuine antique. Reproductions of old dishes are better to use than the real thing. Today’s regulations prevent the addition of toxic elements in the production of dishware. That was not true in the past.
Identify Your Antique
Before you learn the value of a piece, you must first identify the item. If you want to identify an old item yourself be prepared to do some research. If you love antiques, this process can be a lot of fun as there is a lot to learn. Your local library will have a section of antique and collectible guides for everything from old furniture to hardware. These can be a valuable resource. Of course these kinds of books are available to purchase at a bookstore or online.
Online sites like Kovels and Replacements are an excellent resource for the identification of dishware.
Look for maker’s marks on the item. Dishware, for example, should have an image on the bottom called a back stamp. You can then look up that stamp. There are many types of, say, dishware that appear similar. My Blue Fjord plates may look a lot like the highly collectible Royal Copenhagen but a quick check of the back stamp (shown below) tells me the truth.
Many products have marks that change slightly over the years which can help you learn when the item was produced. Some furniture will show identifying marks as well. An authentic Stickley Morris type chair should have a decal on the bottom.
Selling Your Antique or Collectible Item
When selling your antiques through a dealer, it behooves you to establish a relationship with a trustworthy and reputable person. Talk to people you know who can recommend an antiques or collectibles dealer that they have done business with in the past.
Create a buzz for the antique that you wish to sell by hawking on other sites including social networking sites like Facebook and Twitter. Draw interest in your product by advertising, or writing articles about antiques, featuring the types of antiques or collectibles that you wish to sell.
Selling Your Antique or Collectible on Craigslist I know plenty of people who have arranged successful deal s on Craiglist both buying and selling. But there are horror stories too. If you must,arrange to meet the buyer in a public place for your own safety. Only accept cash. Of course, you can’t sell a Victorian armoire and meet the buyer in the parking lot at Denny’s. Well, maybe you can, but it may be a bit cumbersome and kind of ridiculous.
Selling Your Antique or Collectible at a Consignment Shop Most consignment shops will arrange to pick up and item at your home. They generally charge 1/of the selling price. Pay attention to the contract and their sales practices. Some consignment shops lower the price drastically if the item does not sell in a specified amount of time. You want to be sure that you are comfortable with the lowered price.
Selling Antiques at Auction can be a good resource if you have a large collection of smaller items or one real good item. Auction can be good for you if you want to move a piece quickly, but you might not always be happy with the price.
In the case of a very valuable antique, significant art, or a historically significant antique, you may want to establish provenance. If you want to sell the piece as an important artifact, you will have to do so. Provenance means that a paper trial has followed the item throughout the years. Receipts, letters, and other documents that have been handed down along with that item will serve that purpose.
Face it, anyone can say that George Washington ate off a particular plate. Someone’s say-so is not proof. Some sites claim that a photograph can show provenance. A photograph may help but to say that just because you own the same chair shown in one of Mathew Brady’s Abraham Lincoln portraits does not mean that your chair is the exact one shown in the picture.
This is the first in our series of how-to guides on buying collectibles as an investment. We’re going to start by looking at toys. I’ll begin by taking a quick look at the factors that have made toys a viable target for investment.
A Short History of Toy Collecting
While it’s likely that people have collected toys pretty much ever since the first toy was made, one of the most significant factors in the road towards modern toy collecting was probably the first mass production of toys.
In an interview given at doctorwhotoys.net, Dr Catherine Carey of the Western Kentucky University lists the following criteria that determine collectability: “aesthetic value, standardization, authentication, variation, set completion, nostalgia/notoriety/novelty, affordability, rarity, investment value, community, and a thrill of the hunt”.
Modern mass production, introducing standardized sets of items that collectors can pursue, substantially increasedthe impetus to collect.
This started with tin toys, model soldiers and model vehicles such as train sets and dinky toys, and progressed through to toys made from plastic, like Barbie dolls which first appeared in 1959.
A landmark in the perception of toy collecting was the film Star Wars which was released in 197The surprise success of the Film, (famously one of the first marketed Star Wars products was essentially an action figure IOU) spawned an immense range of toys. The long gap between films (and therefore toy releases) after Return Of The Jedi had the effect of driving up the price of some earlier collectibles to impressive levels.
Suddenly toys were widely perceived as valuable collectibles, something that may have, paradoxically, reduced their value as an investment, for reasons that will be discussed shortly.
Collecting vs. Investing
It’s worth pointing out here that this guide is intended to help you in the acquisition of toys as an investment, not as part of a collection, and it’s important that we recognise the difference between the two activities.
Certainly many toy investors start out collecting products that they have an interest in, and this interest can be tremendously valuable for an investor, bringing with it a broad range of knowledge about the products.
However it’s important that, in investing, you donot lose sight of the fact that the objective is to achieve a return on your investment. Collectors may feel compelled to purchase items because of personal preference rather than value as an investment; they may even be ignoring the fact that their particular area of interest is actually a poor choice to invest money into. It’s probably a good idea, therefore, to take a look at some of the factors that make for the ideal collectible.
The Ideal Investment
Sealed/Undamaged goods – This is a key factor in the value of toys as a collectible and any listing of collectible toys will be peppered with acronyms such as MOC (Mint On Card) or MISB (Mint In Sealed Box), which has a huge impact on their value. The simple fact is that many toys will be opened and played with, while much of the value of sealed toys comes from their scarcity. Taking the previously mentioned Star Wars collectibles, a quick
Lack of competition – “Collectibles” tend to make poor investments. The reason for the value of the aforementioned MISB toy is that almost no-one left them in that state. If a toy line is currently attracting large amounts of interest from collectors, then the chances are that down the line, your mint condition collectibles will have lots of competition from other items in a similarly perfect condition. If you are thinking to invest long term, then be particularly wary of items that are specifically marketed as collectibles, or which are primarily attracting attention only from adult collectors. A prime example of this was the Beanie Baby craze, which saw the price of the items shoot up immensely over a short period of time and then collapse to almost nothing. You should also avoid spending too much time and money acquiring limited edition or “shortpacked” chase items, which may be desirable for completionist collectors, but as an investment you may find that they fail to return the extra effort and expenditure required to track them down.
Demand – If buying new toys for long term investment, you need to think carefully about which toys are likely to appeal to tomorrow’s collectors, not today’s. Adult toy collectors tend to be driven by nostalgia, perhaps even the desire to acquire items that they are were unable to afford as a child. Look for toy lines that correspond to currently popular film and television properties, but also look at the toys themselves – are they well made? Do they seem to offer good play value? If you are attempting to acquire vintage collectibles then you need to have a good understanding of which products are the most desirable to the current collector and what they will be willing to pay for them.
Completion/Parts – As toys are played with, small parts and accessories tend to be lost. Obviously if you are keeping your collectibles in a sealed/mint state then this will not apply to your items, but it can still have a big impact on the strength of the opposition. Future collectors are much more likely to pay a premium for your MISB item if they are unable to find complete, unboxed items at a reasonable price. If you are buying vintage toys then you need to know what components should be present and which items may become easily damaged. Some items are very easily damaged and mint loose items will increase in value because of that. In particular some earlier types of plastic can easily be discoloured by sun exposure, or become brittle with age. Some paint types (especially metallic paints) can be prone to chip easily, and many items have parts that are easily snapped off.
Rarity – Items are more likely to become valuable if they are only produced in relatively small quantities or for short periods of time. Long running properties will often see multiple versions produced of the same toy, often using identical moulds. For example, “Bumblebee” a popular character featured the recent Tranformers movies, might seem like an excellent candidate for collectible, apart from the fact that there have been over 100 separate versions of the character produced since the movie’s release in 200(demonstrated in the identification table here), and that’s just counting the movie version of the character. Be wary also of the recent trend of reproducing similar or identical versions of vintage toys in near identical packaging to the original. Make sure you can distinguish these from the original items. For example the previously mentioned AT-AT toy was made available in a “vintage” edition in 2012, featuring near identical packaging to the original.
Storage – Some items are more difficult to store in good condition than others and some packaging is produced using poor quality material which is easily scratched or bent. Such packaging can obviously increase the value the value of a mint condition item, but increases the difficulty for you of properly storing the item, and acquiring an item in good condition in the first place.
Our current investment tip
Currently I’d consider Lego toys to be a good example of an item that may be expected to increase in value. Lego toys are currently experiencing a dramatic upsurge in popularity among children. They are often released in themed ranges that contain unique components and mini-figures that are not typically re-released, and which are available for a relatively short period of time. They provide strong play value and are entirely composed of numerous small parts that are easily lost when the items are played with so future collectors will be strongly inclined to seek boxed items. Many Lego items have packaging that cannot be opened without damaging it. There are also relatively few adult Lego collectors compared to properties such as Star Wars or Transformers, and many of those who do exist will open the items in order to assemble the models rather than buying the items as an investment.
Keeping your investments safe
If you intend to store items for sale at a much later date, then you will need to keep them well packaged and away from damp conditions. If you intend to put items on display, you should avoid exposing them to direct sunlight which can quickly bleach the colours from packaging or even plastic. If you have young children or pets it may also be wise to insure that the items are kept well out of sight, lest they become a source of temptation.
It’s obviously a good idea to consider how you are going to store items before you start to accumulate them, not after. If you build up a significant stock of items you may need to insure them separately from your normal household coverage and even consider their impact as a fire hazard.
Selling your items
Eventually you are going to want to sell the items that you have bought in order to recoup your investment, ideally without eating into your profits to pay expensive selling fees, or using up too much valuable times.
Trade fairs and events – Many trade fares and niche events have a traders market that gives you direct access to dedicated collectors. The cost to acquire a stall at these events is often quite high, but items at these events often sell for a considerable premium over online sales.
Track and organize your collection
Quickly document everything in your collection by selecting the items you own from our extensive catalog. Easily add new items and your own photos, descriptions and item details. Upgrade to see items values and estimates on the total worth of your collection.
You can find
German cuckoo clocks for sale all over the world. Finding a quality and authentic clock can be challenging with so many cheap imitations on the market. Producer standards, practices, origin, and reputation are all important factors in the measure of quality.
Germany’s southwestern region known as the Black Forest or Schwarzwald has been producing authentic cuckoo clocks for nearly 300 years. Schwarzwald is the well established home of the cuckoo clock. Black Forest wood carvers and clockmakers alike are considered to be the best in the world. These past and present craftsmen built the standard by which all coo coo clocks are measured.
In an effort to preserve the art, integrity and standards of fine cuckoo clock making the Black Forest Clock Association was formed. Also known as VdS or Verein die Schwarzwalduhr, this group of producers, traders, and cuckoo clock experts sought to formalize the strict practices the region is so well known for. Together they created a certification process designed protect the Black Forest tradition and represent quality around the world.
The chalets of the Emmental Valley
RAILROAD HOUSE CLOCK – also known as Bahnhäusle Uhren
Born out of Friedrich Eisenlohr’s award winning design in 1850 the Railroad House clock remains one of today’s most popular cuckoo clock styles. Inspired by the 19th century era railroad guard house the clock displays a station house facade and pitched roof ornately covered in hand carved grape vines. In 185Johann Beha created a slightly different version he referred to as a Railroad Station clock. It included a detailed oil painting on the clocks face.
THE MECHANICAL MOVEMENT
Mechanical movements are the most common in Black forest cuckoo clocks. As a mater of fact, a cuckoo clock must be driven by a mechanical movement made in the Black Forest to earn the coveted Black Forest Clock Association seal and certificate of authenticity.
Powered by weights and gravity, the hard brass movements do not require electricity to function making them eco-friendly. Once made entirely of wood, these movements have been used in black forest cuckoo clocks for centuries.
Most cuckoo clock craftsmen today use industry standard REGULA movements by SBS Feintechnik. SBS operates in the Black Forest village of Schonach, Germany and is known throughout the region for its high quality clockworks.
THE QUARTZ MOVEMENT
Quartz movements provide a reliable alternative to their mechanical cousins. These movements are battery operated and are most often found in clocks of the lower price range.
Music, movement and animations in quartz cuckoos are electronic simulations of the mechanical cuckoo clock. Maintenance is simple and usually limited to changing batteries.
Quartz cuckoo clocks do not qualify for VdS certification since they are imitations of the authentic mechanical movement. Still, there are reputable manufacturers that produce quality quartz cuckoo clocks with an authentic look.
Let’s cover the basics:
The two basic cuckoo clock shut-off options are automatic and manual.
A manual shut-off requires that you manually set a switch to the off position to disable the sound of the clock. The clocks sound will remain off until you manually change the switch back to the on position.
1-DAY cuckoo clocks usually offer manual shut-off only. You will rarely if ever find a 1-DAY clock with an automatic shutoff. Since 1-Day are wound daily the switch is usually set while winding.
An automatic switch can be set to the on, off, or automatic position. When set to the automatic position it will silence the clock automatically for to 1hours beginning between 8pm and 10pm in the evening.
8-DAY clocks generally have a manual shut-off. Many but not all 8-DAY clocks are available with an automatic shut-off option. Most muscial clocks in the upper price range will include the automatic shut-off feature as standard.
First of all thanks for reading my article to the end! I hope you find my reviews listed here useful and that it allows you to make a proper comparison of what is best to fit your needs and budget. Don’t be afraid to try more than one product if your first pick doesn’t do the trick.
Most important, have fun and choose your Figurines wisely! Good luck!
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- №1 — Resin Red Laughing Buddha Figurines Lucky Happy Buddha Statue-Set of 6-about 2.5″
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