Welcome to Buyer’s Guide!
Home tools Buyer's Guides from tech enthusiast who loves technology and clever solutions for better living.
Home tools Buyer's Guides from tech enthusiast who loves technology and clever solutions for better living.
Check Today Price
Top Of The Best Double Rods Reviewed In 2018Last Updated June 1, 2018
№1 – HLC Collapsible Commercial Grade Clothing Garment Rack Double Rods
№2 – Heavy Duty Rolling Garment Rack,Pagacat Clothes Hangers Rack with Double Rods and Shelves[US Stock]
№3 – Beme International Decopolitan Urn Telescoping Double Drapery Rod Set, 36-72-Inch, Brown
Some Switch Rod Basics
I won’t touch on lines here, totally separate topic. I will say that switch rods play bigger than a single handed rod. If you are curious about line weight, buy 1-line weights lighter than you would in a single hand rod. So if you want your switch rod to play fish like your weight single hander…. get a weight switch rod. weights are the most common for anglers chasing Steelhead and Salmon. Not just because of the fighting ability of the rod, but because heavier switch rods spey cast better. They are easier to obtain distance especially with large flies.
These are all fabulous rods. As they should be… they are expensive! Each one of these models offers the caster a slightly different action. The only one I hesitate to include in this category is the
This category of rod is reserved for the casters that know for sure they’ll make good use of it. If you are an experienced angler and want to have a high level casting experience, go premium – you won’t regret it. Especially if you are an established spey caster. If you are a newbie to spey, don’t bother. There are some great mid-level options and learning to spey cast on a switch rod isn’t easy. I’ll summarize some of the pro’s con’s of each model.
Sage METHOD Switch Rod – At 11’9″ this rod is a bit longer than most of the others. It is really designed as a two-handed rod for anglers that want to throw high line speed and tight loops with spey casts. This means windy environments, mid-sized water where long rods aren’t necessary, brushy rivers where casting under trees on the opposing bank might be necessary, or advanced spey casters that don’t need a 13′ spey rod to achieve distance and want some of the line handling advantages of a shorter rod. There is no rod that I have ever cast that throws with as much distance and line speed as this rod.
Sage ONE Switch Rod – I don’t know how Sage could have built this rod any better. Its tough, light, and casts like a champ. It is a bit more friendly than the Method but at 11’6″ it is a bit long for single hand work. I personally have both the weight and the weight and love the. The 5116-is a killer nymphing rod for small steelhead and the 7116-will handle almost any anadramous fish. If you are advanced to intermediate and want to buy once cry once this is an easy choice.
Winston Boron III-TH Micro Spey – They make a trout specific series of rods called the Micro Spey that I have had the great pleasure of fishing with. The weight can handle some light summer steelhead work but these rods are best known for offering the angler a true “trout spey” rod that isn’t built on a steelhead chassis. This means more touch, more bend, and a casting stroke that is more relaxed. Winston has really focused on building some fantastic two-handed rods but hasn’t really tackled the heavier weight switch rod game.
Sage ACCEL Switch Rod – This rod is much smoother than the ONE or METHOD and is a tad shorter/softer which makes it much more overhand friendly. We have had more people test cast this rod versus other models and choose the ACCEL over everything else than all other models. The faster action stuff (ONE and METHOD) are pretty stiff which at 11’6″ and 11’9″ are fairly hard on the elbow and casting arm. The ACCEL is a lot better for overhand casting, mending, and doing the “fishing stuff”. If you are going to drift and indicator with a premium rod the ACCEL is a good choice. It is fun to cast, you’ll feel it bend deep, and if you are a beginner to intermediate angler and but want to take the plunge into premium gear the Sage ACCEL is a sound purchase.
ECHO Switch Rod – This is another rod that sort of splits the premium/mid-level range so we decided to let it play up and compete with the big dogs. This rod is most comparable to the Sage ACCEL as far as action goes. It is the only rod we categorized as a “premium rod” that is built overseas. The ECHO brand has one of the most loyal followings in fly fishing and if this is your label then don’t hesitate to pick up and Echo They are very smooth to cast and you’ll feel this rod bend. It doesn’t offer the blistering line speed of the Sage METHOD or ONE but you’ll really enjoy throwing nice smooth casts with beautiful loops all day. It is easy to cast.
Ok, this is a crappy photo I admit. But I want everyone to see the grips of these rods side by side. There is a plastic wrap on the Echo SR and the TFO Deer Creek, all three rods have some synthetic cork. Take note of the thickness of each grip.
Redington Prospector Switch Rods – This rod came out after the main competitors below so in many of our prior reviews this rod doesn’t get any press. Its near the top of the food chain though. I just personally got the weight after test casting a lot of rods and it fits nicely alongside my Sage ONE weight. I needed two for my guests to use while guiding. At 11’3″ the weight is a great two-handed rod that spey casts great. I wouldn’t want to overhand cast it all day. With a slightly faster action than the TFO Deer Creek and 5″ more in length than the Echo SR it would tire out your elbow pretty fast.
The cork appears very good for a rod in this price range and the components and finish are the best in show. Everyone loves the Redington Prospector.
The downside is that it doesn’t bend as deep and provide the fun rebound of a softer action rod. Part of the fun in two handed casting… is the casting! I don’t find the Prospector as fun to throw as the TFO Deer Creek. It certainly gets the job done. If I am two handed casting it has a marked advantage over the Echo SR but has a slight disadvantage in single hand fishing. 5″ of length on a switch rod doesn’t sound like much but you’ll notice it.
My first switch rod was a TFO Deer Creek 11′ weight… man they have been making this rod for a long time! In fact, this might be the longest running line of fly rods that I have ever witnessed. They must have started making this about years ago or so and it still continues to be one of our best sellers. This rod bends the deepest out of all the rods in the class. It is very fun to cast, is beginner friendly, performs well enough to please experienced casters, and splits the difference between overhand and spey very well. Customers love this rod. I have also found it to be very tough and can’t ever remember breaking this rod. In years past I put this rod through a lot of abuse.
I am a little disappointed that they changed the grip material on this rod and went away from a natural cork grip to a blended grip. This is purely an aesthetic issue and if it doesn’t bother you don’t sweat it. It just doesn’t have the curb appeal of traditional cork. I LOVE the thin nature of this grip however. That may be part of why they had to go away from traditional cork. To keep the grip thin may have required a more durable material.
Bob Meiser and Mike Kinney designed these rods. These two have been at the forefront of popularizing and refining blank designs for the Switch Rod concept of fly rods since the mid 1990s. Mike Kinney is known for being one of the best casters and fishiest dudes in the land. TFO uses their proprietary Axiom material lay-up process for these blanks. I personally can testify that they are tough, bend deep, and bounce back under a load like you wouldn’t believe. “The TFO Deer Creek rods are the most user-friendly rods I have helped design so far. They are the best rods for the money anywhere in the industry today.” – Mike Kinney
Echo SR Switch Rods – This is the preferred rod in this price range for anglers that plan to cast single handed more than half of the time.
It is a GREAT casting rod and seems to throw the tightest loops with one hand. If I were streamer fishing and beach fishing more than spey fishing I would probably choose this rod. It is also perfect for anglers looking for a nymph fishing rod on big rivers and simply want some reach with the option to cast with two hands.
Its built on a slightly different chassis than the other rods and handles more like a “true switch rod” and less like a spey rod. Initially, switch rods were single handed rods with enough deep flex and a bottom hand so that spey was an option. With the popularity of spey, now many of the rods are spey rods that you can cast single handed as an add on. This is neither good or bad, but if you want to cast it overhand then the Echo SR is a great choice.
I have personally found the graphite on this rod to be durable and responsive. I like the classic look of the grip. The only downside of this rod is that we have had reports of the grip de-laminating from the blank and it gets “squishy”. Redington is a great company and would warranty something like that within reason, but that doesn’t do you any good if it starts to go while you are fishing. You get what you pay for. Good rod, good price.
Overall, easy to cast, beginner friendly, good for Skagit lines and casting, bends deep which is fun to cast, and a great value.
Echo Classic Switch Rod – This is the only rod in the review that I personally don’t have much time on. I regret this too because everyone that buys it, loves it. We haven’t had any negative feedback at all on this rod and we sell quite a few of them. Echo has such a loyal following and folks buy this model as a word-of-mouth referral a lot.
I like the look of the polished reel seat and as far as action goes, this is a “classic” which means that it bends easy making beginner friendly cast that new two handed casters will excel with and experienced casters will appreciate.
High modulus: A term you’ll hear a lot from rod companies, but it has a fairly loose definition.
Effectively it means the carbon is stiff, so although it will have a degree of elasticity for casting and playing fish it will also retain its shape and strength.
1K/2K/3K carbon weave: The density of the carbon, noticeable in the ‘lattice’ effect seen on uncoated rods.
Carbon fibre is supplied in continuous sheets and the K figure denotes how many thousand carbon filaments they contain.
A real cat among the pigeons in this group, the Curvex is all about old-school feel on a modern design.
This is unashamedly a fishing rod, not a poker-stiff casting tool. It was born from the needs of European anglers who drop their rigs from boats, but in this country is perfect for putting the fun back into your angling.
That is not to dismiss the Curvex range as a gimmick – far from it. Truth is, it’s got plenty of power to tame hard-fighting fish without ‘locking up’, and you have to remember that only a very small percentage of British carpers are regularly fishing beyond 80yds.
We don’t like
Pick up a TX-and the first thing you’ll notice is the tape-wrapped butt grip. It’s made by Winn, who also make golf-club grips, and we actually really like it.
There are a few rod makers offering this type of grip, but Shimano is the first to bring it to the mass market. It’s a trend that might just catch on.
Sometimes it feels as though Shimano only gets credit for its reels, but these rods are among the very best on test here.
Select a pole
These come in lengths: 120, 150 or 180cm. If these lengths don’t work for you, we have a made to measure service too.
Choose one that’s long enough to allow your curtains to stack back to the sides of the windows. Poles can be cut to size, or joined with a connector if made from metal. Wood poles come with a double end screw to join them. You’ll need an extra centre bracket for poles over 180cm in length.
Choose your curtain rings It’s best to allow one ring for every 10cm of pole.
Choose your brackets
All poles will need 2x side brackets, and those over 180cm long will also need a centre bracket and connector.
For bay windows you’ll need to use flexible bay corners in conjunction with passing brackets. These brackets give intermediate support and, with the open ended passing rings, allow the curtains to move across them freely.
Should adjoining rooms have the same rods? It depends. If you can see all the windows at the same time, then yes. You might even need the same drapery between rooms if your home is very open concept. The more obvious separation there is between rooms, though, the less you need to be concerned with coordinating rods between them.
Rotating weight is felt most when ascending, so a wheel suited to climbing is usually designed with low weight in mind. Such wheels generally feature a shallow-profile rim and a low spoke count.
Another benefit of such a wheel is seen in ride quality. Typically, the deeper a rim gets in its shape, the harsher the ride — therefore climbing wheels are often more compliant.
Where a wheelset is below 1,500g and doesn’t claim to be aerodynamic, it can often be put into the climbing category. When budget is no issue, a superlight climbing wheelset should weigh between 900g and 1,300g.
Mid-section aerodynamic wheels
Aerodynamic wheels have quickly become a popular choice for creating that ‘pro look’. An aerodynamic wheel will usually feature a deeper section rim, with a rim depth of around 30mm being the typical starting point.
As aero designs have improved in recent years, there has been a big uptake in these mid-depth wheels — which unlike some deep-section models (see below) now provide a sensible balance between low weight, ride quality and improved performance against the wind.
Aerodynamic rims are often made from carbon fibre in order to keep weight low. However, budget options are likely to be made of or feature aluminium, so will be heavy.
Deep-section aerodynamic wheels
Deep racing wheels offer aerodynamic benefits, but only at higher speeds
When speed is a priority, a deep-section rim of 50mm or more cuts through the wind with less turbulence. However, the additional depth can cause problems if riding in high cross-winds and often adds weight, which is why mid-depth wheels have become a popular compromise outside of time trials and fast sprint courses.
People who race on deep aerodynamic wheels will often own a set of training wheels for use outside of racing.
While speed and low weight are a priority for racing wheels, training or ‘everyday’ wheels must be durable and able take a beating.
Because rims wear out over time with braking, alloy training wheels are often best. A custom, handbuilt wheelset — where replacement spokes and rims are relatively cheap — are a good choice (see below for more on these). Other options are budget wheels from major brands, which can be quite solid and have parts that aren’t too expensive to replace.
For this type of usage, expect a wheelset weight of 1,500–1,800g for something that is well priced. A budget wheelset is likely to be 1,900g or over.
Road wheel rim width explained
Internal rim width is becoming a very popular metric to look at in road wheels
While the 622mm bead seat diameter is an industry standard, the width of the rim is not. Recently there has been a trend towards wider rims because they offer greater tyre volume and a stiffer wheel, which in turn provides a more comfortable ride, improved bike control, lower rolling resistance and potentially fewer flats. For those racing, wider rims have been shown to be more aerodynamic too.
The confusing part is that some brands quote external rim width, while others internal. Looking to internal width, anything under 14mm is considered very narrow, 19mm and over is wide and anything between is sufficient for common 23-25c tyres.
This spline system hasn’t changed a great deal in the last 20 years, with the exception of 11-speed forcing a wider freehub. The latest Shimano-compatible 11-speed wheels include a washer for use with 8-, 9- or 10-speed cassettes.
If you have an 11-speed drivetrain you will need to ensure the wheels are 11-speed compatible.
It is possible to buy a cassette that will allow you to use an 11-speed drivetrain with 10-speed wheels. Such a thing exists from the likes of Token, Edco and others. Just be aware that they are generally more expensive.
Ensure that the freehub body is right for your drivetrain — number of gears and brand does matter
Beware of older Shimano 10-speed wheels from 201These featured a narrower 10-speed only freehub body with taller splines and so will not work with any other speed cassette.
SRAM cassettes use Shimano’s spline system, so are nearly all cross-compatible. The exception here is SRAM’s new 1×1 specific XD-Driver, which is its own standard.
The freehub diameter and splines of Campagnolo freehubs are very different to that of Shimano/SRAM. If you have Campagnolo gearing, ensure that the freehub body is matched.
Many aftermarket wheel brands will sell freehub bodies as a replacement part — so it’s possible to switch a Campagnolo wheel to Shimano and vice-versa (Shimano-branded wheels being a key exception here).
Freehub ratchet speeds
A feature that’s commonly overlooked in a hub is the ratchet speed or the angle of uptake. Hubs typically don’t go lower than 1points of engagement per 360-degree revolution, but hubs that offer more can provide the feeling of faster acceleration out of corners.
Rim brake road wheels
Many road bike wheels are still designed for use with rim brakes, which means the rim must offer a consistent braking surface. This is why most quality aluminium rims claim to offer a ‘machined’ surface, which generally guarantees an even braking surface at manufacturing.
Carbon rims typically don’t perform as well when braking, nor last as long as aluminium rims — especially in the wet. Keep this in mind if you’re considering a carbon wheel for everyday use.
Disc brake road wheels
Disc brake wheels feature a hub with a mount for the disc rotor. Because of the high forces these rotors exert on a wheel when braking, disc-brake wheels often feature higher spoke counts. The latest designs do away with the rim braking surface entirely and modify this traditionally reinforced area to achieve lower weight.
It’s worth noting that fitting disc brakes to a road bike isn’t as simple as swapping out the wheels, both the frame and fork must be designed to accept disc brakes too.
Disc brakes are fast becoming popular among those who don’t race. Pictured is a Shimano Centerlock spline system to hold a disc brake rotor. The other system is a six-bolt mount
When buying disc brake wheels, it’s worth being aware that there are two types of rotor mount: Center Lock and six-bolt. Center Lock is a splined system from Shimano, which with the use of an adaptor, can also use six-bolt rotors. Six-bolt hubs can only fit six-bolt rotors.
Spokes lace the hub to the rim. Generally, wheels with higher spoke counts are stronger and more durable, but this comes with a weight penalty.
Typically a spoke is made from a piece of stainless steel wire that’s been cold-forged and then had a thread added to it. Some higher-end wheels can also feature spokes made from aluminium, carbon fibre or even titanium.
When it comes to a quality wheel build, correct spoke tension is critical. Too loose and the spokes can unwind, and the constant flex will eventually lead to broken spokes or cracked rims. Too tight and the ride quality will be harsh, with an increased risk of the rim cracking at the spoke attachment point.
Factory vs. handbuilt wheels
The merits of factory vs. handbuilt wheels are often argued.
Confusingly factory wheels are, in fact, commonly built by hand. The key distinction however is that factory wheels are built to an exact specification and you buy them as an off-the-shelf item, often with proprietary spoke and rim designs.
Handbuilt wheels take a more classical approach, where the hubs, spokes, nipples and rims can be bought separately and chosen to best suit a rider’s individual needs.
Generally speaking, race wheels, whether climbing or aerodynamic, are mostly sold as factory options. The big wheel brands dominate this space due to their research, development and marketing through sponsored teams.
Handbuilt wheels are commonly kept for training, long-distance and everyday uses. However, there are of course examples where the opposites are true.
Road wheel glossary
Asymmetric rim: as the rear cassette sits on the right side of the hub, the point at which the spokes attach from the rear hub is offset to the left. With this, an asymmetric rim is designed to give a more direct path from these offset spokes to the rim, with the desired result being a sturdier and stiffer wheel
Axle: the hub spins around the axle, which is attached to the dropouts of the frame and fork. On a road bike, the axle is always hollow and most commonly designed to work with a quick release lever
Bladed spoke: a flattened spoke that’s designed to cut through the wind with less resistance. Bladed spokes are common in high-end wheels and also serve the purpose of providing an edge for a tool to hold onto, which can allow for a higher spoke tension to be achieved. Top spoke brands DT Swiss and Sapim both claim that their best bladed spokes are not only their lightest option, but also the strongest and most durable
Butted spoke: a process that sees the centre of the spoke being made thinner than the outer sections. When done correctly, this is known to encourage spoke flex away from weak points, therefore leading to improved durability at a lower weight. Double butted means two different thicknesses and triple butted means three thicknesses
Cartridge bearing: in this system, bearings are contained in a cartridge that features the ball bearings, and inner and outer race as one unit. The outer race is a tight press-fit into the hub shell, while the axle contacts the inner race. These items are considered perishable, where old ones are taped out and new cartridges pressed in place
Center Lock: a Shimano spline system for mounting a brake rotor onto the hub
Clincher: the most common type of tyre system on a road bike. Here a bead on the tyre locks with a lip on the rim. Clincher tyres use inner tubes to hold air
Cup and cone bearing: the alternative to cartridge bearing hubs is cup and cone. It’s most common on entry-level wheels and all those sold by Shimano. These feature loose ball bearings that run on a permanent outer bearing race, with a cone shaped inner race that can be adjusted.
Disc brake: brake technology proven in mountain biking (and automotive prior to that) that places a thin plate-like braking surface (rotor) at the hub with a caliper that clamps onto it to slow the bike down
Dish: the relation of the rim over the hub. On nearly all frame designs, the rim must be perfectly centered over the hub
Double wall rim: this refers to the internal cross section of a rim. Where a single wall rim has one layer of material for the spokes to connect to and the tyre to sit on, a double wall rim adds an additional level of material separating the two. This additional layer creates a box type section, which greatly aids in rim stiffness and wheel durability
Eyelet: a reinforcing ring in the spoke hole of a rim. An eyeleted rim typically allows for greater spoke tension and therefore a more durable wheel. A rim that claims to feature double eyelets will have the eyelets travel through both walls of the rim (see double wall rim)
Freehub body: the mechanism on the rear wheel that allows a rider to coast or pedal backwards without resistance
Hub: sitting at the centre of the wheel is the hub, which contains the axle, bearings and rear freehub and holds the spokes
Machined sidewall: a finishing process after the rim is made, which helps ensure its braking faces are parallel and even
Nipple: the nipple is the nut of the spoke. Typically the nipple sits at the rim, though some wheel designs place the nipple at the hub
Open-tubular: effectively a type of clincher tyre system. Open tubulars differ slightly in their manufacturing technique, which is generally to a level similar to high-end tubulars
Quick release: a tool-free mechanism for attaching a wheel to a bike. It consists of a threaded rod connected to a lever-actuated cam assembly. The rod is slid through a hollow hub axle and a nut on the opposing side allows tension adjustment
Radial lacing: where the spoke leaves the hub and meets the rim in a straight line. This is the easiest form of wheel building and results in the shortest length (lightest weight) spoke possible. This style is popular for front wheels, but does not resist torque appropriately for use on the driveside of a rear wheel or with disc brakes
Rim: the outward hoop of the wheel that holds the tyre and acts as a braking surface for rim brakes
Rim tape (AKA rim strip): protective tape used to cover the multiple spoke holes in a rim. Without this, an inner tube would expand through the rim holes and puncture. Some top wheelsets from Shimano, Fulcrum, Mavic and others do not require rim tape
Defining the Problem
A rod can be broken down into three convenient and easily recognized sections, the tip, the middle and the butt. In actual casting, the hand drives the butt, the butt drives the middle, and the middle drives the tip, and, of course, the tip drives the line. The tightness or looseness of this linkage is the action of the rod.
But Palmer offered no language for describing this “linkage.” And trying to define action simply as the “stiffness” of a fly rod doesn’t take into account that the relative stiffness is not uniform throughout. A rod may have a tip that is stiffer than the butt-section, for instance, and the placement of stiffness along the blank can be one of the key determiners of rod action.
However, world-champion caster Steve Rajeff, who designs rods for G. Loomis, argues that—even if all the parts aren’t, in fact, equally stiff—a fly rod does have an overall feel that makes one rod feel stiffer than another. He sees rod action, then, as a combination of taper (“which determines where the rod bends”) and stiffness (“how much it bends”).
Orvis’s Jim Lepage, a trained engineer, at first struggled with the notion of defining rod action in non-scientific language, but he ultimately settled on two terms, flex and recovery rate, which correspond loosely with Rajeff’s taper and stiffness. (A rod’s recovery rate is the time it takes to return to straight after it has been bent, which is somewhat a function of stiffness.) The Orvis Flex Index, which the company developed in the mid 1990s, describes the speed and amount of power required to make a rod bend to a predetermined load, and it allows Lepage to assign a numerical value between 2.and 12.to a specific rod action. The higher the number, the faster the rod action.
This begs the question Why isn’t there some kind of standard for measuring this? In the 1980s, both Mel Krieger and Scott Fly Rod founder Harry Wilson called for the creation of a rod-action rating system, but there wasn’t much support for the idea. A decade later, Orvis came up with the Flex Index and offered it to the industry for other companies to adopt, but none did. There is not enough agreement among manufacturers and designers about how to measure action, how to apply the terminology uniformly, and how to enforce any standards. Lepage argues that the Flex Index would work well as a base for ensuring consistent measuring of action while still leaving enough “wiggle room” for designers to individualize their products.
So what can we tell from the current terminology? A fast-action rod bends mostly at the tip—which is why Orvis refers to its faster rods as “Tip Flex”—and recovers more quickly than slower rods. Medium-action rods bend more toward the middle of the blank, which is more comfortable for many casters. Slow rods bend all the way into the butt section, which makes the smoothness of casting stroke crucial but tends to be more forgiving in terms of timing.
But keep in mind that these descriptions hold true for a given line weight at a given distance; designers make an educated guess about how most anglers will use a particular model. Changing the line weight or speed can change a rod’s action dramatically. Put a 6-weight line on a 5-weight fast-action rod, for instance, and the rod bends deeper into the blank.
Starting in the mid 1990s, the fly-fishing market was inundated with fast-action rods, and a “modulus war” broke out as companies touted their new high-tech materials as the key to higher line speed and more power. According to Rajeff, fast-action rods are so popular because of simple human psychology. “We all want to go faster,” he says, whether we’re driving, or running, or fly fishing. “There’s a misconception that ‘fast’ is better,” Scott president Jim Bartschi argues, “but that’s not always the case. I don’t want my 4-weight dry-fly rod to be stiff.” By abandoning such loaded terminology, Orvis has trained its customers to look beyond value-based terms to focus the rod itself, Lepage says, and the company sells twice as many Mid-Flex 5-weights as it does Tip-Flex models.
While there are still small disagreements among experts about the advantages and disadvantages of each particular rod action are still somewhat up for the debate, there are some fundamental truths. A fast action generally makes a rod load quicker and makes it easier to produce tight loops with high line speeds, which for many casters translates into longer casts and the ability to cut the wind better. Plus, you can makes casts faster when you’re casting off the tip. That’s why fast-action rods are so popular on the bonefish flats. But there’s a trade-off: the caster doesn’t feel the rod loading and unloading well, which can make the precise timing required by a stiff rod difficult for novices. The fast recovery rate can also snap very light tippets, leading to more broken-off fish.
Medium-action rods work well for a wide range of applications—if you’re going to be switching from nymphing to dry-fly fishing off and on during the day, for instance—so if you’re only going to have one rod, a medium action is a good choice. Many anglers find they can cast more accurately with a medium-action rod, as well, because there’s more time during the stroke to line everything up. For casting sinking-tip lines or large flies, a medium-action rod easily throws a more open loop, and it works better for roll-casting. If you really need to throw tighter loops, you can underline the rod by one line weight.
Slow-action rods are definitely the smallest part of the market. For repetitive roll-casting or throwing small flies short distances on long leader, you can’t beat a slow-action rod, but Bartschi also notes that his favorite sinking-line rod is a slow rod with a stiff tip, which performs roll-cast pickups well and throws a slow open loop. Slow rods require smooth acceleration and greater tip control during the casting stroke, so some casters struggle with tailing loops.
Because action and casting stroke are interrelated, an accomplished caster can cast well with any action. The truth is that power and strength are not related to rod action. For instance, depending on your particular stroke, you may be able to cast farther with a medium-action rod that you can with an ultra-fast model.
Fish such as carp and F1s wont be attacking a feeder as aggressively as in summer and with the water cooling down you’ll need less bait to hold fish in the peg. A big feeder might risk overfeeding them too, so it’s time to step down to much smaller frames. Good choices are the new Mini range of Hybrid Feeders and Mini Inline Method feeders from Guru, or the Preston Inline Dura Banjo.
Bright days are a feature of autumn and with the sun low in the sky it can be difficult to see a float tip properly. For pole fishing for anything apart from small silverfish, try going for a hollow plastic bristle which catches the light and shows up really well, even when dotted right down. We recommend the Preston Inter Carbon or Maver MV-R float patterns.
For situations where you used a size 1hook in summer, it’s now time to scale down to a size 1Fish feed much less aggressively in the cold so a smaller hook weighs less and is likely to achieve more bites. It doesn’t necessarily have to be a finer wire hook, as long as it’s small and strong. The Kamasan B91is a good all year round choice, especially in its X-Strong version, as is the Guru LWG.
Go down a grade of elastic
It’s time to reconsider your pole elastics as the thick, bagging grades of summer are now likely to be too brutal as you may bump fish, especially if you’ve scaled down the hook size. So think about going for a light to medium grade hollow on commercial fisheries, blue Daiwa Hydrolastic is a good all-around choice, as is Preston Hollo in 9h or 11h grades.
A great tip is to set your elastics soft when you fit them, as hollows can be harsh on the strike if they’re too tight. You can always tighten a slack elastic up a bit but if you’ve got a puller bung or puller kit in you can’t slacken an elastic which is too tight!
Pole pots rather than catapults
Cut down your feed as we move through autumn and winter. Catapulting baits such as pellets around the float is a great way of catching on the pole in the warmer months but now it’s a better idea to keep your feed much tighter, as fish are less likely to chase baits around. So get a pole pot on the end, those with sprinkle-type lids are ideal for regulating a few pellets into the swim at time. Try the Map Flexi Pots or Frenzee Soft Clear Pots.
Autumn is a great time for trotting, with rivers generally still at low or normal levels. On fast to medium-paced rivers, a centrepin reel is a great bit of kit for putting a float through, but you’ll need enough flow to be able to pull line from the drum at the speed of the current.
To go with your centrepin you’ll need a good selection of floats. The faster the water the thicker the top you should choose, and likewise the deeper the swim the heavier the float you should use. An alloy stemmed shouldered stick is a good all-around choice for most species, or there’s also a special offer set of 1varied river patterns HERE.
Eve is an online only brand that has developed one mattress to fit all, with an ethos of keeping things simple, beautiful and affordable for every budget.
The Eve mattress comprises of three stacked layers: a high density base layer, a breathable cooling layer and a new generation memory foam layer to top it off. What’s different from the standard pure base foam is that Eve use an ultra resilient Reflex base foam that reacts to your movements, making the whole mattress reactive to your needs.
The memory layer is unlike other leading memory-foam mattresses where you get that sinking feeling, quite literally. The high-point elasticity has been developed to provide a responsive, soft cushioning without cocooning the contours of the body.
By submitting your details, you will also receive emails from Time Inc. UK, publisher of Ideal Home and other iconic brands about its goods and services, and those of its carefully selected third parties. Please tick here if you’d prefer not to hear about:
Simba Hybrid Mattress
The Simba Hybrid is one of the new breed of mattresses that pops out of a handy-sized box. It’s the way the world of mattress shopping is going, as it’s convenient and super easy – order it today, get it tomorrow and trial it for 100 nights! Once unleashed from its box, the mattress takes 3-hours to fully take shape, ready for a night’s sleep.
Simba Sleep claims its high-tech mattress satisfies the sleep needs of 95% of the population. With odds that high, we asked what makes it so ground breaking? James Cox – CEO and co-founder of Simba Sleep told us, ‘It’s the first dual-spring and memory-foam mattress of its kind in the UK market. Its cutting-edge technology offers the comfort of five layers of memory foam with the support of 2,500 patented conical pocket springs.’
The patented springs make these mattresses unique, moving horizontally and vertically to fit the shape of your body and give you the best sleep. The Simbatex layer provides cool, gentle support, whilst the Visco memory foam moulds expertly to your body shape. It’s like a mattress that’s tailor-made for you.
Hovag Pocket Sprung Mattress
This is Ikea’s best-selling mattress by a mile! There’s no denying its unbelievable value, ideal for those on a budget. Take note first-time buyers and renters! One of the Ideal Home team was so impressed after testing it that they went and bought it. They describe it as the perfect balance between firm support and comfort.
You get support in all the right places thanks to the individually wrapped pocket springs that work independently and closely to follow the contours of your body. It’s designed to be slept on one side only, therefore it doesn’t require turning – although it’s fairly light. This is the best cheap mattress you can get.
Tempur Cloud 2Medium Mattress
The original masters of memory foam, the Tempur design model provides a top comfort layer made of a specially developed ‘extra Soft’ material for a feeling of instant relaxation. This unique fabric was designed to regulate temperature and humidity. Aptly named the cloud, the nature of this mouldable mattress material cocoons your body as it reacts to your body heat, making it ideal for relieving pressure points, such as hips and spine.
Working in perfect harmony with the lower support layers, once you settle your body weight is redistributed reducing pressure while you sleep. In addition to the comfort factor, this mattress also features a removable and washable cover, which is ideal if you are an allergy sufferer.
The Drysdale Pocket Sprung Mattress
This is the best-selling model from UK sleep experts Button & Sprung. Founder Adam Black tells us this is popular due to the unique IQ Spring system and six-layers of all-natural filling – with cotton, that’s strong, breathable and temperature-responsive.
The IQ system is something the Button & Sprung team developed exclusively. It provides an advanced level of comfort by offering ‘progressive support’. In other words, the more you push it the more it pushes back so everyone, regardless of their weight, gets exactly the right amount of support.
Goture SWORD Series Telescopic Fishing Rod
Are you an avid angler always looking for a fishing rod with a sturdy build and an elaborate design? Then the Goture SWORD series telescopic fishing rod is your perfect buy. Made from the high density of 24-ton carbon fibre it will help you maintain the perfect angle. The compact design will help you cast over a distance of 100 meters without any hassle. Sturdy design and lightweight, you can easily carry it around with you. Be it a small fish or a big one the sensitivity of the rod towards the slightest vibration will make sure that you do not miss out.
Easily fits in a car trunk or back pack.
The high-density carbon fibre and the E-glass provide great power helps to maintain the perfect balance.
It can be used efficiently in harsh saltwater as well as fresh water without any obstacle.
While trying to collapse it, if an unrequited force is applied to the pole it tends to snap.
A fishing reel is not provided.
Cannot be relied on if you are planning for a heavy fish.
Pocket Fishing Rod Metal Reel Seat Super Hard Portable Telescopic Fishing Pole
Telescopic fishing rods are a boon for people who love fishing but are constantly traveling. While their ability to turn compact is the best advantage, most of the times they do not come off as the most reliable source at times of need. If you are facing one such problem, them the Yongzhi pocket fishing rod metal reel seat super hard portable telescopic fishing rod is your ultimate solution. Strong and durable are the best words to describe this fishing rod. Meant to lift even a fish weighing up to pounds, this is one reliable fishing rod.
Eagle Claw Pack-It Telescopic Spinning Rod
Eagle claw fishing are known to produce efficient yet durable fishing products since last 90 years. The eagle claw pack telescopic spinning rod is another beauty created by them. Add it to your backpack or just keep it under your car seat, this telescopic spinning rod will be a part of all your adventures and spontaneous journeys. The lightweight aluminium reel makes it more user-friendly and comfortable. Be it bass fishing or fresh water fishing it will never disappoint you. Also, the reel handle can be shifted to either side, so even the lefties can use it easily.
It is a Strong and long lasting option at a convenient price.
The length of the fishing rod
The length of the fishing rod is very important when it comes to selecting a suitable option. But while talking about the best telescopic fishing rod, it is necessary to consider the full length and the closed length. The full length of the fishing rod is measured from the butt of the rod all the up to the tip of the rod. Whereas the compact length is the length of the rod after it has collapsed. The compact length should be such that it can easily fit in your luggage or be easy to travel with.
The weight of the telescopic rods is generally lighter than the traditional fishing rods. The reason why the weight of the telescopic rod is important because it shouldn’t be heavy or it will not be convenient to carry around while traveling. Moreover, the material used to construct the fishing rods contributes to the weight of the rods. A well balanced telescopic fishing rod should neither be heavy nor light as it can greatly impact the casting as well the pressure handled by the rod. The weight of the rod also speaks for its ability to handle the weight.
The material out of which a fishing rod is made of determines the durability and the flexibility of the fishing rod. The materials should provide strength as well flexibility ensuring that the rod does not snap under pressure. Most of the high-end telescopic rods are made of fiber glass, carbon fiber, graphite or mixture of carbon glass and carbon fiber. These two materials will provide strength as well as flexibility. While purchasing a telescopic fishing rod make sure that you do not buy any rod made from a cheaper material under the pretext of the mentioned above.
The guides or the eyelets are the rings that on the fishing rod. These rings direct the line of your rod into the water. Another important function of the guides is to handle the weight and the pressure of the fish once you have caught it. Most of the telescopic rods have five guides generally. Though, an excess of guides on your rod will result in more weak points. Hence it will result in losing the overall strength of the rod while maintaining the balance.
The power of the fishing rod will define the strength of the rod. There are generally three powers of these rods, generally known as heavy, medium heavy and medium. The materials and the size of the rod influence the power of the rod. Considering most of the telescopic rods mentioned in the above list, they are most in the medium to medium heavy power range. This ensures that they are strong, but their level of sensitivity is rather limited. While the telescopic rods which are generally known to have a lighter power rating, these rods are extremely sensitive and not meant for heavy and larger fish.
While telescopic rods are preferred for their ability to turn compact, the same ability can turn disastrous at times. It is necessary to understand that the rod should easily blank, and the guides should stay aligned while fishing. Many times blank tends to twist or does not coordinate with the line when a large fish is captured. A good telescopic rod will be able to handle extreme pressure without twisting or sliding away from the line.
The action of a telescopic rod defines the flexibility of the rod when it is cast. It is concentrated on the tip of the fishing rod. The three actions of a fishing rod is slow, medium and fast. Slow action means the entire rod will flex, medium action means the mid section and fast means that only the tip flexes. Slow action rods are more suitable if you aim to capture larger fishes. Fast action rods are more sensitive and more preferable for lighter fishes. The key is to decide on the basis of your own personal preference when it comes to deciding the preferred action of a fishing rod.
Our runner up for the title of best fishing inflatable kayak is from Elkton Outdoors. With an interior measuring ten feet long, its storage space and special features have been designed with fishing in mind. The only one of our inflatable kayaks to come with both vertical and trolling rod holders, this is a fantastic option for people who want something compact or portable to enjoy fishing alone or with a friend.
Upgrades are available to include their PRO-G independent rear suspension, Wilwood brake kits, air-ride shocks, polished components, Currie posi-trac third members, and brake line kits. If you’re looking to build a high-end showstopper or a street cruiser, Heidts has a frame that will fit your needs.
Hot rod pickup IFS kits. An independent front suspension (IFS) is one of the biggest driveability improvements you can make to your hot rod pickup. Fatman Fabrication’s kits install easily to your original framerails WITHOUT cutting your truck in half! Radiator, bumper, and sheetmetal mounts are preserved while a nice drop is achieved. Options, such as sway bars, dropped spindles, power rack, QAcoilovers, and air ride let you dial in the stance that suits your style and wallet. Upgraded brake kits include 5-, 5.5-, and 6-lug bolt circles to match original wheels. Finish the job with motor mount, steering connection, brake, and power steering hose kits. Applications include GM, Ford, Mopar, Studebaker, Hudson, and International trucks for the ’30s-’80s! ’60-’8Chevy pickup bolt-in hot rod IFS. These popular trucks look great lowered, but when you want more than the 4-inch drop delivered by spindles and short springs, ground clearance under the lower control arms gets dangerously tight. Since 1993, Fatman Fabrication has been building bolt-in hot rod IFS kits that gain inches of ground clearance, and are 1½ inches narrower per side to help tuck your tires in the fenders. They are built on original GM framerails, using the original IFS bolt holes so they fit directly into your own chassis. Optional polished stainless steel control arms, QAcoilovers, air ride, truck bolt pattern brakes, and Wilwood brake options let you bring the style of your new IFS up to the standard of your entire build!
A really nice hot rod project deserves a top-quality chassis from Fatman Fabrication. Why weld, repair, and fill pits on an old chassis when a very affordable new one can be built to your specs? Complete new frames for ’35-’7Ford trucks and ’34-’5Chevy trucks are available. All are specifically designed for your truck, with all necessary body, bumper, and radiator mounts in place to make your installation a pleasure. Your choice of engine and trans will be mounted, with a wide variety of options, such as air ride, coilovers, power-assisted steering and brakes, four-wheel discs, stainless steel control arms, and rear axles. Complete brake plumbing, Borgeson U-joints, and epoxy primer options can make your body swap even easier.
Beginners’ rods and basic outfits
We’ve all seen those diddy little rod and reel starter outfits in bargain shops, with thick line and huge floats. They might look like bargains, but most of these are fairly dreadful, so do yourself a favour and head for a reputable tackle shop. The dedicated fishing retailers don’t sell rubbish and will have much more sensible fishing starter outfits and deals on sale. Basic Coarse Fishing Rods
While shorter rods are fine for getting started on most stillwaters, a longer float rod is the tool for river fishing.Image source: Dom Garnett
A simple float rod (also known as a match rod) is often the coarse angler’s best starting option. Don’t go any shorter than ten feet and pick a model that will handle reel lines in the 4-6lbs class. This way you can handle all the common species, from roach and bream to the typical carp you’ll find at day ticket fisheries. The TF Gear Nantec 10ft Float Rod is one of Fishtec’s best selling starter models which will handle most of your basic float fishing needs.
Should your main local venues be rivers, however, a longer rod of at least 1feet will make more sense, allowing you better reach and control in currents. The buyer is spoiled for choice these days, but the Daiwa Harrier range has 1and 1foot options.
If you are not sure whether you want to float fish or use legering tactics, several rods offer interchangeable top sections to allow you to switch. Sometimes these are sold as “all round” or “twin tip” rods. This way you can float fish, or try casting a bomb or method feeder should the need arise. Just to give one example, TF Gear sell a very useable float rod for under £40.
The TFG Allrounder is a good choice if you’re not sure whether to get a float or feeder rod when starting out. Image source: Fishtec
Another fantastic option for the beginner is a fishing pole. With no reel to tangle, these are easy to use, trouble free and very effective. You won’t be able to cast far, but with a simple model and a few rigs, you’re in business on the local day ticket pool or canal. These days they can be very affordable too, with starter models often available for well under £100. Go for a ready elasticated model if you are unsure about setting up.
First of all thanks for reading my article to the end! I hope you find my reviews listed here useful and that it allows you to make a proper comparison of what is best to fit your needs and budget. Don’t be afraid to try more than one product if your first pick doesn’t do the trick.
Most important, have fun and choose your Double Rods wisely! Good luck!
So, TOP3 of Double Rods
- №1 — HLC Collapsible Commercial Grade Clothing Garment Rack Double Rods
- №2 — Heavy Duty Rolling Garment Rack,Pagacat Clothes Hangers Rack with Double Rods and Shelves[US Stock]
- №3 — Beme International Decopolitan Urn Telescoping Double Drapery Rod Set, 36-72-Inch, Brown