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Home tools Buyer's Guides from tech enthusiast who loves technology and clever solutions for better living.
Home tools Buyer's Guides from tech enthusiast who loves technology and clever solutions for better living.
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Top Of The Best Connectors Reviewed In 2018Last Updated January 1, 2019
№1 – CableCreation 100-PACK Cat 6 RJ45 Connector, UTP Network Plug For Solid Wire and Standard Cable, Transparent
№2 – JEVIT USB 3.0 up down Male to Female Extension Adapter Combo Upward and Downward 90 degree Right Angle USB 3.0 Super-speed Connector Adapte Coupler
№3 – 10X L shape 4 Pins Connector JACKYLED 10mm Non-waterproof Quick Splitter Right Angle Corner Connector 12V 72W Clip for 5050/3528 SMD RGB 4 conductor LED Strip Lights Strip to Strip (22Pcs Clips)
Molex Picoblade Specification Document
This connector is very similar to the JST-SH connector but is slightly larger with.25mm more spacing between pins. It is used in almost every FPV camera on the market. It is also used with Futaba receivers and the micro servos you can buy from HobbyKing.
How to crimp your own connectors
Crimping is the process of squeezing metal pins around a wire so that the two form a strong bond that cannot be easily separated. It is the major step in making your own connectors using just wires, pins and plastic connector bodies like the ones you can purchase above. Crimping your own connectors is the ultimate way to get a fantastically clean quadcopter build. With splicing, you are restricted to lengths of wire between connectors of at least 2cm, for a good splice. It also forms a hard, straight length of wire where the splice is done. By crimping your own connectors, you will be able to remove these disadvantages and have one clean length of wire running to all your parts.
ESCs without BEC are often referred to as OPTO (optoisolator). All this means that that the part of the ESC that receivers the signal from your flight controller or R/C receiver is isolated from the higher voltage circuit that powers your motors. OPTO ESC’s are common on many multirotor setups as your dont always need a BEC as discussed above.
Tip: ESCs with BEC are able to supply power to your on-board equipment. I always like to go with the general setup of having all but one ESC without BEC, and one with BEC.This way, there should be no interference between the ESCs and if I need to power anything like servos etc., I then have that option.
ESC Servo connector
With any ESC you will have a servo connector that connects to your flight controller. 95% of the time this will be a wire connector, the middle wire (usualy Red) will be the power output (5V) the white wire (sometimes orange) is the signal wire. The black wire (sometimes brown) is the ground connector. However in some cases when using OPTO ESC’s you might only have two connectors, the signal and ground wires with a space in the middle. An example of a ESC servo connector is shown below.
The USB connection method
If you have or are looking to complete a multi-rotor setup, you do not necessarily need to worry about programming your ESCs. This is because you can ensure that you buy ESCs with multi-rotor specific firmware which come with pre-configured settings for multi-rotors. Such firmware are BLHeli and SimonK as mentioned above.
Most ESCs are compatible with the musical tone method, but this gets very tiresome when configuring several ESCs but there is no need for extra equipment with this method. As for using a programming card, this is basically one step up from using the musical tone method but with lights. Programming cards are not exactly common however, and so I would recommend the USB connection method.
Tip: In my personal experience, I would always recommend the USB connection method. This obviously involves connecting your ESC to your PC via a USB link board (as mentioned above) where you can program your ESC with relative ease and then save the settings. This method also allows you to upgrade the firmware on your ESC with the latest version which is always helpful.
For ESC calibration uses, there is a useful little device that allows you to connect up to ESCs together and so calibrate them all at once. This is the ESC calibration throttle hub for ESCs.
There’s a pretty good argument today that cable quality makes no difference to audio or picture quality, but with one major caveat – this only applies to digital cables.
Of course, your vinyl record player is not a digital source, although if you have one with a analog-to-digital converter that outputs via USB, this rule would apply to that USB cable.
A cable is actually a pretty complex thing. Depending on the type of cable, it may have a metal core that carries the main signal and a layer of shielding that isolates that signal so that it neither receives nor causes interference.
Speaker wires, for example, can be bought in shielded and unshielded versions. It may seem logical to shield these wires, but the low frequency and power that run through speaker wires makes noise from interference a non-issue in general. There are, however, some situations, such as when bundles of wire run through a wall cavity or when coupled with some other electronics, that interference may crop up. However, speaker wire is cheap, so you might as well start with the unshielded stuff and see if there are issues. In the vast majority of cases, more expensive shielded cabling is not needed.
Apart from normal twisted pair speaker wire, the other cable you’ll likely encounter is the humble RCA cable. This is a standard that has been around since the 1940s and was also known as “phono” connectors, so these actually share history with vinyl record players.
When you buy stereo RCA cables to connect the preamp to the amp, or sometimes even the turntable to the preamp, you need to make sure you get cables that are going to give you a good experience.
While most RCA cables use copper throughout, you may also find some that have gold or silver-plated connectors. Silver is the best conductor, followed by copper and then gold. The main reason to use gold is that it doesn’t oxidize, the process we most commonly refer to as “rusting”. When a metal rusts, it loses its conductivity, which will severely affect the sound quality.
Copper tends to rust at the connector end, so plating the connector in gold or silver helps. Gold lowers the conductivity, though, so it represents a compromise between a lower maximum conductivity level in exchange for a guarantee against rust. Unless you live in sea air, silver is probably the best compromise, since it increases oxidation resistance while leaving conductivity no worse than that of copper.
Also pay attention to the plating on the connector on the device. You might as well match gold with gold or silver with silver, since the lowest common denominator will affect the whole chain.
However, if you aren’t living in a place where oxidation is a huge issue, just go with plain copper. You can also get relatively reasonably-priced zinc, tin, and nickel-plated RCA connectors that do better than copper when it comes to oxidation. Silver and gold are therefore not really worth the extra money unless you have a very specific reason to have them – like living on a houseboat, I guess.
RCAs can also be bought with shielding, as I mentioned above. The same rule applies – go with the cheapest option and then only upgrade if you actually have interference problems.
The other thing you should take into account is length. Cables should be no longer than absolutely necessary. This is not only neater, but means there is less signal strength drop. If you need cables to be very long you may even need some sort of repeater device, although for most home users this will never be an issue. So before you spend money on cabling, measure the distance between your components in their permanent positions and buy RCA cables as close to that length as possible.
When it comes to speaker wire, you can have them made in any length, so try to get them at a length that does not result in unused cable coiling somewhere. It also makes financial sense, since you pay for every inch of cable you get.
Wired for Sound
In the end, it is just not worth spending money on fancy cables but, at the same time, you should not buy the very cheapest cables you can find. Many off-brand or generic cables from far-flung parts of the world can be of such poor quality that the insulation disintegrates or the thin wire inside breaks within the cable. When we buy cables we should care more about features that affect the build-quality rather than the sound quality. A cheap cable can sound about the same as an expensive one, but break and rust in very short order.
So aim for the middle and try to buy cables that are from a reputable brand. Use your ears to listen for any noise issues and only buy fancier cables if you know it will make a difference. The money you save is better spent on higher-quality components.
Our next most common plug is the flat plug known as a Stage Pin. Most commonly seen in theaters, it is the standard 120v dimmed power plug and a great option for any installed venue. I really like putting dimmers on stage pins because you then know that no one can accidentally plug a non-dimmable item into a dimmer!
If you’ve been around stage lighting for awhile, you’ll probably know that stage pins don’t always plug together well, and that’s the reason why many people don’t like them. They’re either too loose and you have to tape them, or too tight and tough to get apart.
Thankfully, this has now changed. There is now an international standard for the exact dimensions of the Stage Pin plug, so any new Stage Pin plugs you buy should mate perfectly together. Hooray!
Most, if not all 208v moving lights and LED lighting fixtures and video walls use the L620 Twistlock. It is the production industry standard for 208v power.
So, if you own or rent moving lights or other fixtures that run on 208v power, this is the plug that you should use.
It’s important to note that electrically, this plug has hots and a ground, but no neutral. Depending on the wiring of the fixture, either the neutral and ground are bonded, or the lamp just uses the hot phases to balance each other out.
PowerCon Blue and White
A lot of modern, auto-sensing moving lights and LED fixtures use a PowerCon input that will take 120v or 208v. This presents a problem when production companies buy all Edison to PowerCon cables for the inputs and then want to run the fixtures at 208v.
It is incredibly dangerous to use a 120v plug for 208v power! Even if you think all of your crew are paying attention and competent, a stagehand or volunteer help will plug something in and the gear will get fried, and they might too! Friends don’t let friends use Edison plugs on 208v power! Not only is the Edison plug not rated for 208v, it’s just plain dangerous.
To take it a step safer, I’d also suggest that you never use some PowerCon fixtures on 120v and some on 208v. A cord will probably get switched, a white PowerCon output at 120v will get plugged into a fixture wanting 208v, etc. It’s dangerous, can break your equipment, and is a bad idea. Got it?
The Trueis an update to the existing PowerCon connector that I believe will eventually replace the “old” PowerCon completely. Neutrik has engineered this plug to be both waterproof and able to make/break while the power is on.
This is a significant improvement over the old Blue/White PowerCon’s, and for that reason, I am excited to see it take over!
In the lighting world, we have what are called 6-light bars that have an actual Socapex plug on them and then distributes the circuits to the individual lights.
When using these bars, you can simply go from the dimmer rack to the bar and plug in Socapex on both ends.
When using individual lights, you can use a Socapex fan out, also known as a break out. This cord takes the Socapex end and turns it into circuits of Edison, Stage Pin, or L620.
Like PowerCon, Socapex cable can be used for both 120v and 208v power, but unlike PowerCon, you really need to use it for both voltages in the same lighting rig.
This is where you need to be careful, and know what you’re doing. Always have good labels on your Socapex, and never, ever mate a 120v fixture to a 208v plug. I recently knew a stagehand who went into the hospital with 3rd degree electrical burns on his hand because he was hurrying and messed up. He could have died, but he was fortunate.
As long as you keep that safety tip in your head, work carefully and never make an electrical connection you don’t understand, Socapex is a great tool to save you a ton of time and cable mess! FYI, “Soco” is the shorthand name for Socapex, and that’s what you’ll hear it called most of the time.
Cam Lok Feeder Cable
The last piece of cable we use for lighting is the feeder cable that connects all of our gear to the building power supply in the venue we are setting up in.
This cable is typically Cam Lok cable, and is split into individual cables per conductor. That means, for a typical 3-phase power connection, you’ll have five Cam Lok cables to tie in.
Don’t touch Cam Loks unless you know what you are doing. They carry very high amounts of power, and are very dangerous. If you don’t know what you are doing, don’t mess with power, and ask a professional to help you.
Similar to Cam Loks, you may also see Mini-Cams. These are a tiny version of the larger Cam Loks and are used for some video lighting, smaller power distros and dimmers.
How to cite the article; suggest additional literature
Fiber connectors are often used as the terminations of optical fiber cables in order to provide non-permanent connections between fiber-coupled devices (a kind of removable fiber joints
They are used in a similar manner as electrical connectors.
Typically, a connector assembly comprises an adapter and two connector plugs, where one fiber is inserted into every connector plug.
The process of fitting a connector plug to a fiber is more delicate than for most electrical connections:
A fiber connector at the end of a fiber cable. The photograph has been kindly provided by NKT Photonics.
First, a clean fiber end must be prepared, usually with a fiber cleaver.
It must be made sure that the orientation of the fiber interface is correct, e.g. perpendicular to the fiber axis or with some defined angle against it (e.g. 8°).
We’re here to help
Audio cables can seem like a simple thing in concept, until you set out to buy one and realize you didn’t know how much you didn’t know. Although they may be the least exciting components in your stage rig or studio setup, they are some of the most important.
So here is what you need to know, in plain English, to make sure you’re getting the best cable for your gear and your purpose.
An instrument cable connects a guitar, bass, keyboard, or other electronic instrument to an amplifier or preamp that’s intended for direct connection of an instrument. Instrument cables are designed to carry low-voltage instrument signals, and most often have 1/4″ phone plug connectors. Depending on the location of the output jack on your instrument, you may want a male jack with a straight or right-angle connector. In deciding how long a cable to buy, keep in mind that longer cable runs are more prone to picking up interference.
This Livewire Advantage Series instrument cable has straight 1/4″ phone connectors, quality soldering for low noise, and comes with a lifetime guarantee.
Browse the complete selection of instrument cables at Musician’s Friend.
The term “patch cable” generically describes any cable that links various components together. They often are quite short in length and may be used in a PA or recording setups to interconnect gear, or to link effects pedals to each other in a signal chain. They may have balanced or unbalanced conductors (discussed above) depending on their purpose, and can have various kinds of connectors including XLR, 1/4″ phone, TRS, or RCA.
The right-angle 1/4″ connectors on these Six-inch Livewire patch cables makes them perfect for connecting effects pedals in a signal chain.
Mic cables are shielded and balanced and typically have an XLR male connector on one end and an XLR female connector on the other. Some microphone cables have a TRS, mini plug,or USB connector on the delivery end for plugging directly into a computer sound card, DAW, or digital recording device. In addition to connecting a microphone to a sound system, mic cables are often used as longer, balanced patch cables—for example connecting a mixing board to powered speakers. They can also be used for D.I. connections between an instrument and a mixing console as well as for lighting effects with DMX control capabilities.
Top pro studios rate Mogami Gold Neglex Quad Mic Cables highly for accuracy, quietness and tough construction.
Browse the entire Musician’s Friend assortment of microphone cables.
A speaker cable is an unbalanced cable, and usually has a much heavier gauge conductor than a patch, instrument, or mic cable. Speaker cables need bigger wires because they carry much higher voltage signals. They can have 1/4″ phone, banana clip (also called MDP connectors), binding post (as commonly found on consumer stereo amplifiers), or Speakon connectors.
This Livewire Elite 12-Gauge Speaker Cable has a 1/4″ phone connector on one end and a Speakon connector at the other, for securely connecting a head amp to a speaker cabinet.
Browse the entire Musician’s Friend selection of speaker cables.
Speakon connectors are used to connect speakers, amps, and monitors to PA systems. They are gaining popularity over TS and banana plug connectors, because they lock into place, and therefore cannot be accidentally disconnected. “Speakon” is a registered trademark of Neutrik, but other companies make compatible products, often described as “twist connectors.”
The Livewire Elite Speakon Cable offers a secure connection, twist- and tangle-resistant design, and high-quality conductors that keep your signal noise-free.
XLR connectors have three pins for the positive, negative, and ground. They are most commonly used on microphone cables, but you will also see them used on balanced patch cables and with DMX-enabled lighting equipment.
The Monster Cable Studio Pro 2000 XLR Microphone cable uses Time Correct technology for the ultimate in detail and soundstage imaging.
Digital Audio Connectors
Below are some of the most common digital audio cables and connectors required for linking digital mixers, recorders, preamps, and DAWs (digital audio workstations).
A word of caution: In many cases, digital gear uses cables that resemble their analog XLR or RCA counterparts. While these connectors may look the same, the cables are often designed for different resistances, and are not interchangeable with their analog look-alikes.
Browse Musician’s Friend’s entire selection of digital cables and connectors.
Musical Instrument Digital Interface cables allow electronic instruments to communicate with peripheral devices. They don’t transmit actual audio, but by signaling every aspect of a musical performance—the note, how long it is held, the velocity of the attack, etc.—MIDI technology defines the sound in the receiving module.
MIDI cables can also communicate control functions to software and synthesizers, so you can control sound and tones with a remote control surface.
The Rocktron RMM900 Cable carries MIDI commands from a footcontroller to any MIDI-compatible gear via a 7-pin MIDI jack.
USB (Universal Serial Bus) cables have become standard for connecting everything from printers to digital audio gear. USB cables have Type A, Type B, Mini-A, Micro-A, Mini-B, Micro-B, or Type C connectors at one end, and a device-specific connector at the other. USB cables can also be used as a power source for some devices. The latest version, USB 3.0, is significantly faster than USB 2.0 and can make a difference in minimizing lag during performances and studio playback of complex material.
For critical audio applications such as recording and DJ work, a premium-quality connector like the Oyaide Neo d+ Series Class B USB Cable ensures stable performance.
There are three types of FireWire connectors: 4-pin, 6-pin and 9-pin. The 4-pin connector, or FW400, transfers data at 400 Mbps (megabytes per second). The slightly larger 6-pin connector has the same transfer rate, but also supplies DC power. The 9-pin connector, or FW800, transfers data twice as fast and also supplies power.
The METRIC HALO Firewire Cable has a standard 6-pin connector on each end, so it can transfer data and also supply power.
Optical Cables and Connectors
Optical cables transmit digital audio as pulses of light, which make them almost completely immune to interference. They are surround-sound capable, but can’t handle higher-resolution formats such as those on Blu-Ray discs.
ADAT (Alesis Digital Audio Tape) Optical Interface, more commonly known as ADAT Lightpipe, is the widely accepted standard for digital audio transfer on optical cables. It transfers eight channels of digital audio on a special cable with an Alesis-specific ADAT connector.
Livewire Elite Optical Data Cable feature premium, heavy-duty fiber-optic cable with Toslink connectors for ADAT “light pipe” optical connections, audio interfaces and recording equipment.
The Sony/Philips Digital Interface Format (S/PDIF) outputs audio over shorter distances. These connectors use either optical or coaxial cables. Coaxial cables are similar in quality to optical cables, but less common. They use RCA connectors, but these cables are not interchangeable with analog RCA cables.
Bayonet Neill-Concelman connectors were originally designed for military use, but are now commonly used on video and audio testing equipment. The bayonet-style connector is used with miniature and subminiature coaxial cables in radio-frequency equipment and video gear.
This Hosa RG 5Cable has a male BNC connector on each end for video or Ethernet connections.
The Tascam Digital Interconnect Format is an unbalanced proprietary format connector that sends and/or receives up to eight channels of digital audio. The bidirectional connection means that only one cable is required to connect the eight ins and outs of one compatible device to another.
All audio cables with the exception of speaker wires and optical cables are shielded to protect the signal from interference that causes noise. The shielding is most often a wire braid that surrounds the insulator for the center conductor(s). The purpose of shielding is to protect the signal from sources of noise, such as radio transmissions, AC power cords, fluorescent lighting, rheostat dimmers, and some appliances. When you hear radio chatter through your amp, it usually means that the shielding around your amp’s gain components is inadequate, but your instrument cable’s shielding can also be the problem. Good shielding blocks interference and also may serve as a ground.
There are several types of shielding. These are types you’ll find most often:
The most common is the braided shield. Small wire strands are braided to form a sheath around the insulation of the signal-conducting wire. This type of shielding is flexible and durable. Onstage mic and instrument cables are constantly being bent, pulled, and stepped on, and braided shielding holds up best under these conditions.
Serve or Spiral-Wrapped Shield
Another type of shielding is the spiral-wrapped or serve shield. This sheath is formed by wrapping a flat strip of wire strands around the center wires in a spiral. The serve shield, while it lacks the tensile strength of a braided shield, is more flexible than a braided shield because it stretches when the cable is bent. It is less resistant to radio frequency (RF) interference, because it is actually a coil and has inductance. It is also easier to manufacture so cables using serve shielding are usually less expensive.
The foil shield is a Mylar-backed aluminum tube that terminates at a copper drain wire. It provides 100% coverage, but since aluminum is a poor conductor of electricity, it also interferes with signal transfer. Foil shielding is inexpensive and easy to make, but it is also fragile and breaks down easily with repeated flexing. It is best used in small patch cables and stereo cables that don’t move much once they are connected.
Even the best cable will eventually fail, and the more you use your sound equipment, the faster you will go through them – especially if you’re taking it on the road. A cable tester is a simple tool that verifies intended signals are working, and no unintended signals are being carried. If you have a problem with your system, a cable tester can quickly help you determine what and where the problem is.
The Galaxy Audio Cable Tester quickly and easily tests XLR, 1/4″, 1/8″, Speakon, stereo RCA, and DIN (MIDI) cables, making it an essential tool for musicians and sound engineers.
Browse the Musician’s Friend selection of cable testers and other audio test equipment.
Snakes are essentially bundled sets of cables. Stage snakes may contain microphone, patch, or speaker cables and are used for two-way connection between the stage and mixers and other PA equipment. They have a fan of connectors on one end, and a box on the stage end that houses a panel of connectors. In shopping for a snake, the length and the type of connections are the main considerations. There are also audio snakes for studios that bundle various cables needed for connecting studio components.
Very ruggedly built with Neutrik D connectors and serious strain relief on all cables, the Pro Co StageMASTER 12-Channel Snake has 1sends and returns.
Explore the complete selection of audio cable snakes at Musician’s Friend.
Hose Fittings Starter Kit
Ideal for those wanting to try Hoselink fittings on their current garden hose.
What it does: A set of fittings you can use to convert one of your existing hoses to Hoselink.
What it includes: Comes with fittings for the tap and sprayer plus a sprayer of your choice.
Options: A selection of starter kits is available depending on your preferred sprayer.
The Nuances of Micro-USB
If you have an Android phone or tablet, you definitely have a micro-USB cable. Even the most diehard Apple fans can’t avoid them as micro-USB is the most common connector type for things like external power packs, speakers, etc.
If you buy a lot of gadgets, you may find that you collect a bunch of these over time, and since they’re generally inter-changeable, you may never need to buy one separately — unless you keep losing them or breaking them.
When buying a micro-USB cable, it can be tempting to just pick the cheapest option, but, as is often the case, this is a bad idea. Cables made with poor quality control can break easily, and a slightly broken charge cable is pretty much useless as far as device charging goes.
Save yourself the headache and go for a quality product from a recognized manufacturer. The small difference in price is worth it.
Another thing to think about is cable length. Short cables are great for portability, but that can leave you sitting on the floor next to a power outlet as it charges. Too long a cable can be inconvenient to carry, will tangle more easily, and potentially be a tripping hazard.
Three feet is a good length for a charging cable. This allows you to keep your phone in your hand while connected to a battery in your bag or pocket, ideal for playing Pokemon Go
Hosa IRG Patch Cables
Since the company’s inception in 1984, Hosa Technology has been synonymous with quality. This Buena Park, California based company’s dedication to consumer-based innovation has made them one of the preeminent manufacturers of a wide variety of musical instrument and professional audio products.
Hosa is actually one of the leading producers of live sound connectivity solutions, and since its inception has expanded to include full lines of audio, video, and computer products. Everyone from the burgeoning basement guitarist to the dedicated audiophile can find a great solution to their needs, and judging by the company’s track record this isn’t likely to change any time soon.
Cables are kind of a funny product. Some musicians believe that anything but the bare minimum in regards to features and materials is nothing but snake oil, while others swear by positive effects they receive from investing in quality cables. While this review isn’t going to settle a debate that’s been raging for decades, hopefully it helps to inform your purchase one way or the other.
First and foremost, these cables use a lot of technical terms to describe their design. To have a good understanding of what they mean would require a lot of independent research, but put plainly all they’re saying is that these cables are relatively resistant to electronic interference and boast a superior signal quality when compared to cables that don’t have these features.
Terms like Oxygen-Free Copper and OFC Spiral Shielding aren’t really much more than techno-babble intended to make the cable sound like it’s utilizing advanced technology. Which to be fair, companies do have to sell their product. This is doubly true when considering the amount of competition most manufacturers face in a global market place, but it’s really not important that you have an in-depth understanding of the processes involved.
The Hosa IRG-600.Low-Profile Right-Angle Guitar Patch Cables are made for musicians who require a lot of durability out of their patch cables. They are more expensive however, so musicians who don’t gig or travel with their equipment consistently might be better off going with a cheaper product.
Mogami 1.5RR Gold Patch Cable
A high-end manufacturer of instrument and pro-sound cables, Mogami is arguably one of the names when it comes to cables for musicians. Mogami’s story begins decades ago, when the company’s R&D division began researching the causes of audible variance within different signal cables. Much like other high-end cables, the results of Mogami’s research were dubbed controversial as the majority of engineers at the time believed that the majority of cables (provided they were properly made) were the same.
However, as they say the proof is in the pudding. There’s a wide variety of notable professional musician who use Mogami cables exclusively, some of which include: Peter Frampton, Slash, The Blue Man Group, Dave Mustaine, Imagine Dragons, Crosby Stills and Nash, Jerry Horton, and Nick Raskulinecz (three-time Grammy award winner and the record producer for Alice in Chains, Deftones, and Rush).
Mogami undoubtedly owes a large portion of their success to their design philosophy. They’re goal is to produce a wide variety of products that solve different issues faced both by musicians and audio engineers. They’re aware that there’s no perfect choice when it comes to recording because there are so many factors at play, so they dedicated themselves to producing a wide enough array of products that they’d be able to alleviate most of the problems commonly encountered in live sound, performance, and recording.
The first thing you need to know about this cable is that it’s aimed at professional musicians who require a crystal-clear sound quality. As such, they use the finest materials that are commercially viable. However, it’s arguably that a lot of musicians wouldn’t really benefit from this. Unless you’re working a professional recording studio or gigging to large audiences you may not notice the effect that this cable will have on your signal. Problems like this are amplified tremendously in a professional setting and not readily apparent if you’re playing a smaller show or just jamming out in your room.
That’s not to say that the cable is all snake oil however. There are a lot of really great features packed into this product. The inclusion of a gold-plated plug isn’t really going to affect the majority of musicians, because the difference between a gold plug and a standard plug is relatively minimal.
The real utility of this cable is the quality of the shielding and the durable construction. Shielding is the most important part of a cable because it helps prevent the introduction of different frequencies into your signal. This helps to reduce unwanted noise and buzz, which depending on the situation may actually turn out to be a very noticeable change in your rig.
The durability of the cable is also widely lauded among professional circles, which likely plays a heavy role in their adoption in a wide array of major label studios. In fact, most people cite the durability of Mogami as the main reason why they chose to invest in these cables. The only concern is that the cable can tend to be a bit inflexible, but this is obviously going to depend on the situation it’s used in. For smaller pedal boards a shorter cable may be more ideal than this 18” model.
Lastly, all Mogami cables come with a “No Excuse” warranty. This means that at any time if you’re experiencing trouble with a cable that you purchased from a licensed reseller you can receive a replacement. You have the option to either swap out your cable at a participating Mogami dealer or to ship your cable back to Mogami and have a replacement sent back.
This cable is definitely more expensive than similarly outfitted products, which isn’t ideal if you’re on a tight budget. However, the no questions asked warranty makes this cable way more attractive at its price point because regardless if it becomes damaged or you happen to receive a lemon you can get a replacement for free.
Donner Pedal Coupler
Patch cables are so ubiquitous in the eyes of modern guitar players that many of us forget that there is even another option available. While patch cables may inherently be more flexible, they do create a lot of waste space. They’re also not known for being the most durable piece of equipment around, which requires musicians to constantly be repurchasing cables to ensure that they’re always going to be able to use their pedals without fear of any technical mishaps.
Thankfully, there is another option available: couplers! Couplers are kind of like patch cables, except they aren’t really cables. They’re just the two male ends of the patch cable sandwiched together, which while they aren’t as maneuverable as patch cables they are definitely way more rugged.
A notable producer of couplers is Donner, who with their Donner Pedal Coupler ¼ Inch For Guitar Effect Pedal Connector has given musicians a great option that many probably weren’t even aware that they had.
So the first thing you need to know about these couplers is that they’re arguably one of the best options available for those of you with a lot of pedals. Pedals tend to be arranged in rows, so rather than sacrificing valuable real-estate on your pedal board by using patch cables, use these to take advantage of the layout of your pedals.
And though this type of accessory may not be incredibly common, it really does perform the same function of a patch cable. This coupler in particular is guaranteed to be compatible with Boss, Marshall, Korg, Dunlop, and Fender effects pedals. This also means that it should work with the majority of pedals on the market today, as the vast majority of them use the same inputs and outputs.
Another thing to note about couplers when compared to patch cables is that they dramatically shorten your signal chain. Basically, the more cable you run the more high-end frequency response you’re going to lose, which in turn results in a lack of clarity. This can be especially frustrating in large venues, where because of the size you need an excessively clear and articulate tone in order to be heard by your audience.
Even better, it means that you don’t have to invest in as large of a pedal board. With the space you save by using couplers you could easily squeeze another pedal or two onto most reasonably sized pedal boards, which can help to increase the overall flexibility of your rig without necessitating a large investment.
Because this coupler is straight it works best with pedals of the same height, so if you happen to use pedals with a higher than average casing you may not get the best results. However, if you happen to predominately use pedals from one manufacturer you’re not likely to run into problems.
Pedal couplers are an important addition to the rig of any guitar player, and the ones made by Donner are incredibly affordable and just as well made as any similar product.
Ethernet cable it is demonstrably false.
We want to give Kurt and Blue Jeans Cable a huge thanks for this interview. They are one of the very few cable companies who promote cable science over cable myth. For more, checkout their database of cable related articles, and the A/V cable research section of Audioholics.
Four-pin fan headers.
A cluster of four pins to which you connect a chassis fan. Motherboards typically come studded with these, the more the larger the board. The PWM header allows for fine control over fan speeds based on temperature guidelines that are set at a system level. The header sends a 12-volt current through one pin to power the fan, while a control signal on another pin tells the fan the amount of current to draw, regulating the speed (thus PWM, for “pulse width modulation”).
You’ll want to be sure that a motherboard you’re choosing has enough of these headers to accommodate the fans in your chassis. Some case fans will have only a three-pin connector; you can plug these into a four-pin header, but you won’t get the speed control.
Asus Q-Connector for front-panel header.
The front-panel header is a grid of pins on the motherboard, often with some color coding or other on-board labeling, that accepts wires from your PC case. To this set of pins, you’ll connect the thin cables for the case’s power and reset switches, as well as the hard drive activity and power-on LEDs (and, in some designs, an onboard speaker). Most of the time, the pins are in pairs; know that the polarity of the pairs doesn’t matter for the switch cables, but it does for the LEDs. The motherboard manual should contain a schematic that shows where the header is and which pins power what.
Some board makers, pioneered by Asus with its “Q-Connector,” provide a small block that plugs into the front-panel pin header, covering it entirely, but with an identical pinout on top of it. This lets you plug in the appropriate wires outside the PC case, then plug in the connector as a whole.
Air Line Materials
The material used in your air line has a lot to do with dependable pressures at your tool and the life of your line.
At the very low end you will see plastic nylon line that comes in the memory coil design. This air line should not be used in high pressure applications but can be used in hobby applications such as air brushing or inflating your raft.
Polyurethane is probably your best choice if you intend high duty from your air compressor. Its high durability and its resistance to Oil and abrasion will allow it to last longer in automotive and commercial applications.
Rubber line is good for high and low temperature applications. If you run a gas station and need a line for customers to get air in their tires at -23F in Minnesota then you get a rubberized hose that will not crack under pressure.
Line Pressure Rating
Because of internal manufacturing including braiding hose lines of the same size and visual appearance can not be trusted to hold the same pressure.
You may find one 1/inch Polyurethane line that can only withstand 200 psi and another that has a working pressure of 300 psi with a burst pressure of 1200 psi.
So, NEVER judge a hose by its outside look, weight or size. Always read the side label on the hose line before you put it into use.
There are a number of additional accessories that you can attach to your air line to provide
In Line air filtering to clean air for use in painting.
Inline Oilers that add oil to your air helping make sure your tools are always well lubricated.
Inline regulators that can check the line pressure at your tool to make sure there is not a line drop between your compressor regulator and your tool.
Inline regulators are very useful by allowing you to raise your compressor output at the compressor regulator and then fine tuning your air pressure at your tool. This is great for painting because you can see your pressure drop off prior to your compressor cycling and end your work before you see problems in your paint.
Anker’s Lightning to USB Cable.
Anker’s Lightning to USB Cable is inexpensive, well-built from the cord to the stress-relief collar, which protects the cable from damage caused by bending near the connector port. Apple’s cables are notorious for breaking in this way. In our power draw tests, Anker’s cable consistently carried a charge of 2.amps to an iPad Air. While some cables performed as well in this regard, none did any better. This high speed ensures any iPhone, iPod or iPad will charge as quickly as it can, as long as it’s plugged in to a high-voltage power source.
The one drawback of the Anker is the size of its Lightning-connector housing, which is about millimeter thicker than Apple’s cable and 0.millimeter wider. For most cases, this won’t matter, but we did find it too large for the tiny opening on the Lifeproof Fre.
A shorter option
Top to bottom: short cables from Monoprice and Insignia.
If you’d rather have something short and stubby that’ll easily fit in a bag without having to be wound up, go with Insignia’s 6-inch Lightning Charge-and-Sync Cable. Even though it’s shorter than the standard cables, it can cost the same or more. You’re paying for convenience.
First of all thanks for reading my article to the end! I hope you find my reviews listed here useful and that it allows you to make a proper comparison of what is best to fit your needs and budget. Don’t be afraid to try more than one product if your first pick doesn’t do the trick.
Most important, have fun and choose your Connectors wisely! Good luck!
So, TOP3 of Connectors
- №1 — CableCreation 100-PACK Cat 6 RJ45 Connector, UTP Network Plug For Solid Wire and Standard Cable, Transparent
- №2 — JEVIT USB 3.0 up down Male to Female Extension Adapter Combo Upward and Downward 90 degree Right Angle USB 3.0 Super-speed Connector Adapte Coupler
- №3 — 10X L shape 4 Pins Connector JACKYLED 10mm Non-waterproof Quick Splitter Right Angle Corner Connector 12V 72W Clip for 5050/3528 SMD RGB 4 conductor LED Strip Lights Strip to Strip (22Pcs Clips)